Author Topic: Valve Clearance - How To  (Read 46003 times)

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Offline EscCtrl

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #40 on: September 05, 2016, 04:51:06 AM
*Originally Posted by Bisbonian [+]
So, did getting the adjustment correct fix your running problems?

I've noticed a change in the running of my bike in that I have a hard time getting up to higher speeds (speed limit 75mph) and have been chasing this for a little bit now.

My change seemed to coincide with changing the rear tire to a Shinko 705 so most of my detective work has involved making sure chain slack is correct and the wheel is in straight, however this could be just a coincidence.

I have 705's as well in 120-70 and 150-70.I had no trouble running 85mph on the interstate,until I got some mileage on the bike.Then I struggled to hold 70mph.After doing the valve adjustment, and replacing the spark plugs,I'm back to running 85 to 90mph on the interstate.That's indicated by GPS.

Offline Bisbonian

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #41 on: September 05, 2016, 05:03:47 AM
*Originally Posted by EscCtrl [+]
I have 705's as well in 120-70 and 150-70.I had no trouble running 85mph on the interstate,until I got some mileage on the bike.Then I struggled to hold 70mph.After doing the valve adjustment, and replacing the spark plugs,I'm back to running 85 to 90mph on the interstate.That's indicated by GPS.

Thanks, that's good to know. I'll give the valves a try and see what happens.

Offline EscCtrl

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #42 on: September 05, 2016, 05:13:28 AM
*Originally Posted by Bisbonian [+]
Thanks, that's good to know. I'll give the valves a try and see what happens.

You're welcome.I hope it helps.

Offline slayersword

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #43 on: September 05, 2016, 12:46:19 PM
Thanks for the pictures.
I just did it this weekend at 52 000 km (I know I'm late).
Only exhaust was wrong.

Offline UnmzldOx

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #44 on: September 24, 2016, 04:52:47 AM
I'm at 16.5 kmiles. Bought the 61MGZ02 manual off Ebay. No comparison; your detailed photos will make the book almost irrelevant. Thanks lots.

Offline AngryGirafe

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #45 on: October 09, 2016, 12:42:14 AM
Wanted to say thanks for this thread! I've never done valves before, and given that I'm currently at 50K miles on my '13XA, with the last valve service done at 16K, I figured I'd give it a shot. One intake shim was a little on the thin side. Your tutorial is amazing.

Now I'm going to try and put everything back together. And take it apart again later, because I sheared one of the head cover bolts and ordered a new one.  :157:

Offline Gills

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #46 on: October 09, 2016, 08:13:13 AM
Glad you found it useful. Hope you get your bolt sorted without too much trouble.

Offline tasso

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #47 on: October 09, 2016, 03:51:06 PM
Thank you so much Gills for the guide, it will prove invaluable in near future. I have to say that procedure looks intimidating.

Offline Gills

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #48 on: October 09, 2016, 05:20:06 PM
If you've got the tools, it's more long-winded than anything else. Nothing's too difficult if you take your time. Good luck!

Offline UnmzldOx

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Valve Check and Shim Swap Complete
Reply #49 on: October 22, 2016, 07:00:09 AM
With help from Gills' writeup and photos and a little help from the manual, my 16 kmile valve check is complete at 17 kmile + with no big issues. Here are some notes that might be useful:
Support - I used a scissor jack to put the bike upright and stable
Black covers - remove two screws and gently pull apart the velcro stickies
Fairing - The entire fairing with headlight and instrument panel can be removed in one piece. Remove eight screws and the two bolts directly behind the headlight on the steering yoke. Pull apart two velcro stickies and disconnect two harness plugs on the left side.
Gas tank - Two screws and one bolt to lift, then two vent lines, harness plug on left side and the fuel line quick connect. I had trouble with it, but I think the trick is to pull the black, rubber, backing ring away from the blue, plastic, expanding lock ring. Then you can squeeze the lock ring and release the fuel line.
Wiring harnesses - The wiring harness and electronic device support board defies description. It's a complicated layout of a dozen or so plugs, a few devices, hoses, coils, ECU, and harness clips. The goal is to remove the board and lay the harness back to the left to allow valve cover access. It takes time, but there's nothing impossible to remove or unplug.
Valve cover - Remove four screws and pop off by hand. Rotate to ease out of middle space.
Gap check - I used SAE feeler gauge set; 0.001 inch increments or 0.0254 mm steps between each. So the metric values don't land at numbers like 0.120 and 0.130 mm. I should find a better set for the next valve check.

Exhaust 0.254  0.279  0.279  0.254 so within the 0.24 to 0.30 range
Intake   0.152  0.127  0.152  0.152 so within the 0.13 to 0.19 range except the left-middle position.

The shim to replace measured 2.09 mm, so I brought it to the dealer looking for a shim closest to 2.057 and selected a nominal 2.05 which measured 2.03. So a 0.06 shim reduction should result in a gap of 0.187 which puts the gap at the edge of "loose" but within range. The 0.178 gauge fit the new gap but the 0.203 would not slide in. Looking at it now, a metric set of gauges would give me more confidence in the final numbers, but I'm convinced that the gap was at the low limit and a 1 step shim change was all that could be done.

Reassembly - This is not as slow as disassembly, but is still a bit tedious to ensure every connector and harness branch are routed correctly. Missing a plug would cause a lot of rework, but it all came together with no big mishaps.

Total time - All day but enjoyed it.



Last Edit: October 22, 2016, 07:19:22 AM by UnmzldOx

 



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