Author Topic: Valve Clearance - How To  (Read 46066 times)

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Offline Gills

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Valve Clearance - How To
on: March 31, 2016, 09:49:22 AM
Updated: 10 April 16

Note: Whilst I hope this is a reasonably comprehensive guide, it is only the way I found to do the job and is not definitive!

A PDF copy of this guide can be found here: http://www.dicken.plus.com/CB500x-Valves.pdf

Before starting:

Removing the tank is much easier when it doesn’t have much fuel in it. Consider running the tank to a low petrol level before starting the job.

Forum members in both the UK & USA have struggled with availability of new shims from Honda, with them often being on back order for a week or more. Consider; if you can have your bike in the workshop for a week plus, if you are happy to dismantle the bike twice (once to measure and once to fit new shims) or if you can find a source of non-OEM shims (e.g. Hot Cams kit)

Tools required:

2mm/3mm Allen key (for removing plastic clips and hooking rockers into place)
5mm Allen key
6mm Allen key
10mm spanner
8mm socket
10mm socket
13mm socket
17mm socket for crank cover plate
M6 bolt
Cross head (Phillips) screwdriver
Large flat head screwdriver
Feeler gauges
Micrometer or Vernier Calipers accurate to +/- 0.01mm
Magnetic pickup tool (recommended!)

Remove Seat

Remove Side Panels

Remove 2x 5mm allen bolts:


and pull panel out of rubber grommits, starting at the rear, to release:


Remove Front Fairing Side Panels

Remove inner fairing panel by pushing in the centre of the plastic clip, using a small allen key, or similar,


and removing allen bolt (5mm) from top of tank


Remove remaining 5mm allen bolts holding panel and plastic Phillips screw clip (also see second photo). First photo shows bolt locations once panel is removed:


Location of plastic Phillips screw fastener on inside front of the panel


Pull the panel away from the bike at the rear to release the velcro patch and then pull forwards to release plastic lugs from slots in the centre fairing panel. Slots on centre panel:


Lugs on inside of fairing side panel (front pointing down):


Remove Tank

Unscrew 2x 8mm bolts securing front of tank to bike


Pull up the front of the tank so that it pivots on the rear mounting bolt. Remove the 2x rubber drain pipes to the bottom front of the tank


the electrical plug midway down the left-hand side of the tank (pinch to release) and the fuel pipe from the pump (pinch white connector clip to release).


A small amount of fuel will escape, but this will be minimised if the end of the pipe is kept on the airbox.

Once the pipes and electrical connector are released, the rear bolt (10mm) can be removed to release the tank.

Remove Hazard Relay and ECU

The ECU and Hazard Relay are located just behind the headstock on the under-tank tray. Pull the Hazard Relay up off its mount and release the electrical connector in the base. Remove the Relay and push the connector back through the under-tray.


Disconnect the multiplug from the base of the ECU and remove the ECU by pulling it forwards and up through the rubber mounting band.


Release the rubber mounting band from the under-tank tray


disconnect feed wires (x4) to coils


Release the wiring loom securing clips so that the loom can be lifted away from the tray






Removing the under-tank tray

Remove the 10mm nut and bolt securing the PAIR valve to the under-tank tray


and slide off the spigot, so that it is no longer attached to the tray


Carefully lever the clutch and throttle cables out of the retaining clip on the right side of the tray


Unclip the electrical connector secured to the outside left of the tray

Remove the 10mm bolt securing the front of the tray to the frame


Carefully lift and manoeuvre the tray up and out of the frame. Release the right side first and pull off the plug caps to allow the caps and leads to come away with the tray.


Then lift the front of the tray up and manoeuvre the tray away from the wiring on the left side, taking care not to damage the connector mounting clips


Removing the PAIR valve

Release the clips from the ends of the pipes and disconnect the PAIR valve pipes from the cam cover


and airbox.


Unclip the fuel hose from the PAIR hose and the electrical connector to the valve. Then remove the PAIR valve complete with hoses


Disconnect Throttle and Clutch cables

To keep the throttle free-play, loosen the locknut on the rear throttle cable and count the number of turns up to the top of the adjuster. Make a not of this for use in reassembly. Unscrew the adjuster to release the cable from the bracket and then free the cable from teh throttle pulley


Unscrew the front cable to release this too

(Optional, but makes life easier on ABS bikes) Unscrew the 5mm allen bolt on the top of the clutch cover, securing the clutch cable bracket. Release the bracket and unhook the cable


Pull the cables up through the frame and lay them out to side, so they are out of the way.

Remove the rubber heat shield

The heat shield stretches from the radiator at the front back to the frame above the cam cover. It is installed under the top radiator hose, so can only be swiveled out of the way to the right. To do this, unloop the ends of the shield from around the frame. Next remove the radiator top mounting bolt (10mm) and pivot the radiator forwards enough for the shield to be stretched over the top of the mount:


Release the shield from the left and right radiator lugs to enable it to be swivelled out to the right side of the bike.

Release brake pipes (ABS models only)

Unscrew the 10mm brake pipe mounting bolt to the right of the radiator top mount and the bracket just inside the front of the frame to give the brake pipes some slack.


Unclip the 2 white brake line securing clips on the inside of the right frame member and remove the clips. This enables the brake pipes to move slightly up and out giving more room to remove the cam cover


Remove cam cover

Unclip and remove the breather hose from the back of the cam cover


Unbolt the 4x 10mm bolts securing the cam cover in place. The cam cover should now be free to lift upwards, although it might need some persuasion to move. Once loose, maneuver the cover backwards out through the frame, tilting it up on the right, so clear the cam sprockets. It will be necessary to push the radiator top hose forwards and left and, on ABS models, the brake pipes up and right to enable the cover to come out.


Check valve clearances

Remove the crankcase cover using a 17mm socket


Using a 14mm socket on the crankshaft end nut, rotate the engine until the T mark lines up with the nick at the front of the casing.


The IN and EX marking on the rear cam sprocket should line up with the top of the head


With these marks lined up, it is now possible to check the Exhaust valves (front camshaft). The gap should be 0.27mm +/-0.03mm

If the gap needs adjusting, then it is necessary to remove the rocker shaft so that the shims can be removed and measured. Unscrew the 6mm allen retaining bolt from the left of the engine


and screw an M6 bolt a few turns into the end of the rocker shaft


Pull the rocker shaft out of the head to release the rocker arms.


With the rocket shaft removed, the rockers can be pushed away from the valves and the shims removed. I used a magnetic pickup tool to get the shims out and remove them from the engine without danger of them dropping into it.


Once the shim is removed, use a micrometer or Vernier caliper to measure its thickness. It is then possible to work out the size of the new shim required:

New shim = Old shim –  (0.27 – Actual gap)

e.g. If the gap was 0.21 and the old shim was 2.12 the calculation would be

New shim = 2.12 – (0.27 – 0.21)
          = 2.12 – 0.06
          = 2.06

Install the new shim in the top of the valves and re-install the rocker shaft, moving the rockers back into position so the shaft can pass through.

Turn the crank bolt 1/2 a turn clockwise, so that the marks on the camshaft sprockets look like this:


Repeat the clearance checking and shim measurement/replacement (as necessary) on the Inlet valves (rear camshaft). The gap should be 0.16mm +/-0.03mm

To calculate the new shim size on the inlet valves, use the following formula:

New shim = Old shim –  (0.16 – Actual gap)

Reassembly

Reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. The only thing to watch for is ensuring the front of the fairing side panels are correctly aligned as this has to be done as the panel is slid into place, before any fixings are put in.

Last Edit: August 22, 2017, 09:08:51 AM by Gills

Offline Gills

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #1 on: March 31, 2016, 12:49:15 PM
It appears that I can no longer edit my original post, so shall finish compiling the guide offline and then post once it's finished. Apologies for any inconvenience.

Offline EscCtrl

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #2 on: March 31, 2016, 01:38:23 PM
You did way more disassembling than I did.I didn't touch the clutch cable,and everything that was on the under tank tray stayed on it.I didn't unplug but a few things to get the tray off.I didn't remove the throttle cables until I got to the point I was ready to pull the valve cover off.I'll get a pic er two when I go out in a bit.

Offline Gills

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #3 on: March 31, 2016, 01:53:20 PM
*Originally Posted by EscCtrl [+]
You did way more disassembling than I did.I didn't touch the clutch cable,and everything that was on the under tank tray stayed on it.I didn't unplug but a few things to get the tray off.I didn't remove the throttle cables until I got to the point I was ready to pull the valve cover off.I'll get a pic er two when I go out in a bit.

That's interesting, thanks for the info. I'll try without next time. Thinking about it, there should be any need to take the PAIR valve off, just disconnect the hoses. The mounting bolt was a pig as I couldn't get even a 1/4" socket in!

Offline EscCtrl

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #4 on: March 31, 2016, 02:03:41 PM
*Originally Posted by Gills [+]
That's interesting, thanks for the info. I'll try without next time. Thinking about it, there should be any need to take the PAIR valve off, just disconnect the hoses. The mounting bolt was a pig as I couldn't get even a 1/4" socket in!

My pair valve hose clamps were in the wrong position for me to disconnect the hoses.

Here's a few pics for reference.I don't think there's much differences between Euro bikes and US bikes.

Under tank tray


Top view.I have my top end covered to keep crap out until my shims arrive.The valve cover is a pain to remove because of the upper cam chain guide.


Left side


Right side.

Offline Gills

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #5 on: March 31, 2016, 02:17:56 PM
That's very interesting, thanks.

I think the only real difference is that my bike has got the ABS pipes running inside the right frame member. Looking at your photos and mine, I think I could have just tied the clutch cable to the side, although removing it was one of the easier bits of the whole job!

Offline EscCtrl

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #6 on: March 31, 2016, 02:24:23 PM
*Originally Posted by Gills [+]
That's very interesting, thanks.

I think the only real difference is that my bike has got the ABS pipes running inside the right frame member. Looking at your photos and mine, I think I could have just tied the clutch cable to the side, although removing it was one of the easier bits of the whole job!

You're welcome.

ABS does make a difference.It's an option I couldn't find when I went shopping for my CB-X. :003:

Offline motorboy

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #7 on: March 31, 2016, 04:38:19 PM
You both did very good with the pictures if there's  more print them--thanks :152:
It's not a big motorcycle just a groovy little motorbike

Offline rideandfly

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #8 on: March 31, 2016, 04:45:24 PM
Appreciate the write ups and photos!!!!!   Great job!
Bill

Offline MCH500X

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Re: Valve Clearance - How To
Reply #9 on: March 31, 2016, 05:28:06 PM
So what's the usual cost for the dealer to do the valve clearances? (US dollars or better yet CAD). I think doing all of the mentioned above is a recipe for disaster for most. I'll rely on someone who has done it many times and has become proficient at it. Plus any screwups is their dime.

 



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