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Messages - Oyabun

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Suspension / Re: Early vs late fork internals
« on: April 08, 2021, 07:58:08 AM »
*Originally Posted by PhilH [+]
Thank you for the responses.
Reading between the lines, I'm assuming that the improvement of the 16/18 forks over the 13/15 is greater than the difference between the 16/18 and the current bike? I'm talking the stock spring and damper before any other mods.

Reason I ask is 16/18 fork internals (little used, presumably upgraded to RR) seem to be more readily available second hand (in the UK) than the current models'
Nope, the best oem suspension is on the current 19+ models both in terms of damping, travel and spring rates.

Rally Raid / Re: Front and rear Level 2 spring size recommendations
« on: April 07, 2021, 10:49:18 PM »
I surely have, but unfortunately you'll have no use of it, as it is a full cartridge what I've built so cannot be adapted to the RR L2 setup.

Rally Raid / Re: Front and rear Level 2 spring size recommendations
« on: April 07, 2021, 06:09:45 PM »
*Originally Posted by Co.CB500x [+]
Any one have Suspension spring feedback?? :007:
I started off riding on 5N/mm fork and 110N/mm shock springs, and found I have to dial in too much preload at the rear, and the front too vague -  so opted to go for 5.5N/mm fork and 120N/mm shock springs and wish I'd started on these.
BTW, I'm about 195lbs in riding gear, and I prefer a stiffer spring over undsrsprung feeling.
Keepnin mind, that RR is using a dirtbike-like very soft spring rate at the fork end and compensating with a single stage IMHO too stiff valve shim stack on compression circuit for the cartridge emulator.
I've since then upgraded to 175mm travel custom cartridges at the front, and using a 6.7N/mm spring with a sophisticated compression stack for good initial low speed support and very compliant high speed damping circuit.

Suspension / Re: Forks Question
« on: April 07, 2021, 08:36:08 AM »
*Originally Posted by phattanglo [+]
I won't reduce the spacers until I have tried the forks with the 4th hole in the bleed plate to see if normal use increases the travel further.
Short term or funds not permitting I would go with Oyabun's suggestion and replace the early model damping rods with the 2019 rods as they are not expensive and have a better damping profile.
There are sources in the US and the UK and the Racetech website has a very good calculator to assist with choosing the correct rate spring for your requirements.
Your fork setting saga gets a bit all over the place, so it might be difficult to follow for the fainted heart. ;-)
No I don't know any recent forks what would be a direct fit to the CB. Cbr600f3 uses the same 41mm stanchions and cartridge, but much less travel and damping profile made for a different purpose. Also early TDM850 forks are 41mm with similar travel and a cartridge, but they need permanent modification of stanchions and stock they are crap also.
If you're looking at entry level USD forks they are not particularly great either - basic internals and mediocre quality materials at best. All forks which would worth to consider upgrading to need significant modifications to the forks, the steering stem, and would need one-off axle, brake and wheel setup. Totally out of the feasibility window. Also an USD fork is much more a pain in the butt to service, so there is no free lunch.
Going back to your current setup. Pretty much all your symptoms quoted above are appearing not spring, but damping related to me.
How much travel are you using now? What spring rate have you installed at the end? What is your current sag?
Especially if you're going for the 2019+ damper rods, I still suggest to go down with fluid viscosity. Instead of further castrating your PD valves by adding more holes to it, just try going down on suspension fluid as I suggested a month ago. The more holes you punch on the valve face, the closer you are going back to the original mushy low speed and too much high speed damping as the original damper rod has with the fixed orifices.
Rebound on the 2019 rods with the stock 10w fluid is already adequate, but mixing a 12.5w (50:50% 10w and 15w) would totally do the trick on that - and make your compression more compliant.
Also it is not necessary to have the same setup in both forks. Many forks have separate functions e.g. damping in one leg and spring in the other, or more recently rebound in one leg and compression in the other.
Adopting the above you can test any setup without physically modifying your PD valves further. You decide which one is which, but select one leg as the rebound, and one as compression.
In the Rebound leg you can keep the higher viscosity fluid, but remove almost all preload from the PD valve spring (e.g. half turn in from seated).
In Comp leg, use 10w fluid with the current PD valve settings. This way both legs will still provide damping in both directions, but they will do the majority of the work they are designated to. As damping is adding up when parallel, they will add up and let you test different setups.
After the modifications make sure you reinstall the front wheel and axle in a proper manner, so things are not about to bind during use. (Dave Moss has great videos on how to alight the forks after installation)
Test and see if things have changed in the right direction.

Suspension / Re: Early vs late fork internals
« on: April 06, 2021, 09:36:41 PM »
Measurements of different fork internals attached.
In order from left to right:
Comp holes dia(mm) x numberof holes, advertised travel, length from bottom to collar, rebound hole(s) in mm.

Umm, I'm sure you've checked with the admins about posting this ad here?

Suspension / Re: Early vs late fork internals
« on: April 05, 2021, 09:27:19 PM »
Increasing orifice size is easy, but decreasing is a very involved process with welding or brazing and redrilling.
As the newer damper rods have smaller orifices the only reasonable way to achieve this is to retrofit 19+ damper rods to earlier bikes - the additional benefit is 10mm additional travel.
At a cost of 9usd each from Partzilla, I would not think of other way.

Yup. The issue has been identified as the sliding bering of the shaft might  dislocated from its place in the clutch cover, causing increased radial play and difficulty in actuating the clutch.
If you have enough space and a few old tires, you can also manage without draining the oil. Tilting the bike enough on it's left side effectively moves oil to the stator side and enables removing the clutch cover without draining engine oil.
Earlier years had gaskets installed on side covers (my`13 bike did) but later models did not (my 16 bike had only silicon sealant.
The rest is as Timur described.

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: GPI?
« on: April 03, 2021, 07:57:27 AM »
The first ones are the underseat auxiliary port (Options Plug as it is l also called).
The red cap one is the diagnostic port you're after.
The black square is a common negative joint for sensor power what is separated from the common chassis ground to provide a relatively noise free power supply.
BTW, using the search function for gear indicator, brings up over 200 hits on this site, at least half of those related to installation of such.

CB500X - General Chat / Re: Copy of CB500X/F??
« on: April 02, 2021, 09:41:27 PM »
I admit, that the 700 enige's bore&stroke is the same as the 1400cc Jazz engine, and looking from far enough the roller rocker camshaft setup is also resembling the Honda R series engine layout, but as Jenny mentioned it it rather the inspiration and collaboration with car engine designers than anything else.
First of all the NC engine has 270 Crank, while the Jazz engine has traditional 180 engine. Also the NC cylinder head is unlinlje anything you've seen before. It uses a single throttle body, connecting to a single intake port on the head what is separating to the two cylinders and beyond the two valves per cylinder inside of the head. Same thing on the exhaust, the four exhaust valves join into a single exhaust collector directly in the head, having a single exhaust outlet on the head.
So while the NC platform uses a lot of learning from car engine designs it doesn't share anything with any car engine ever got into production.
(BTW, just a side note - at the time when the NC was designed and introduced to the market, I was working for Honda) ;-) )

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