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Messages - JMo

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1
CB500X - General Chat / Re: Spare light bulbs - 2019/20 models
« on: September 26, 2020, 09:55:00 PM »
*Originally Posted by Sloth [+]
Last time I checked it was a requirement to carry light bulbs in France. But my understanding with regard to later model X's are that they are LED and not changeable. Is it really the case that it would be necessary to change the whole light assembly? Or is it possible to carry spares for head, indicator and brake stop?

To tour from UK you would most likely cross into France first. Satisfy their sometimes weird demands (alcometers!) and other countrys should be covered also. But I doubt Les Flic have ever demanded to see these. But if you piss them off they might

I regret having to ask about all this as I have trawled lots of threads to find info - but it mostly seems to be from pre 2019 models. I hope I have it wrong about the headlight as I would have expected to uprate to a Nightbreaker bulb. I will carry spares for the other bulbs if possible. But perhaps this is neither possible or needed

I wouldn't worry about it Sloth... the requirement to carry spare bulbs is so that your can replace one should it blow... but since all the lights are on the 2019-on model CB500X are LED, that's not going to happen.

If you were stopped for any reason by the French Police and actually asked if you were carry spare bulbs, you can explain that all the lamps are sealed unit LED.

I'd be surprised if they even asked to be honest.

Jx

2
Maintenance and Servicing / Re: sag adjustment for a light weight rider
« on: September 25, 2020, 05:40:20 AM »
*Originally Posted by Mike B [+]
Hi, I haven't been riding much for the last few years and not been on the the four for a long time.
I'd like to get back to it, but I think I need to adjust my suspension on my bike.
I'm having trouble understanding which direction to adjust my rear shock  (towards 1 or towards 9)
I think I need to increase sag since I'm short and light.
Can anyone tell me which way to adjust the shock?
Mike

Hi Mike - You will add tension (preload) to the spring by rotating the preload adjuster clockwise (ie. turning it to the right), so if you need less preload to increase the sag, you need to turn it anti-clockwise/left towards 1.

Jx

3
Hi Paulihonda - these ones are what I recommend for LEVEL 2 bikes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/390238349947

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

4
Rally Raid / Re: Rally Raid engine guard?
« on: September 14, 2020, 10:41:08 PM »
*Originally Posted by KennyV [+]
Is the Rally Raid engine gaurd strong enough for lifting the bike?

Yes, of course.



It was very much part of the design brief originally - and the flat base is the perfect platform to lift the whole bike should you need to remove the wheels/forks/swingarm etc.

Jx

5
Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: does fender look right
« on: September 13, 2020, 09:08:05 PM »
*Originally Posted by spooky [+]
now looking at it, I see that its not the one I got :084: I had honda order it for me, maybe ill just amazon myself one... oh well, I try to support local businesses    is this the right one? https://www.motosport.com/polisport-sm-line-universal-front-fender

Yep - that's exactly the one!

Probably best not in green mind you ;o)

Jenny x

ps. looking at the one you have, that appears the be the regular 'supermoto' style one from Polisport, and is actually what I have fitted on my Serow - it's a good shorty dirt-bike/rally fender for a 21" wheel, but like you say, looks a bit long with a smaller wheel.



Their 'SM Line' model is more suited to the CB - has vents in the rear to help with airflow to the radiator, and compliments the overall styling better I feel.


6
Suspension / Re: My observations on Rally Raid Level 1 half kit install
« on: September 13, 2020, 09:05:24 PM »
*Originally Posted by remurillo [+]
Thank you for prompter's reply. :002:
Please need further advise on RR1 rear  shock spring rate.Undecided between 110 or 120 kgNm spring for level RR1

I weight 85 kg with gear plus 15-25 luggage  when solo
I would travel with wife and 2 cases (Occasionally ) adding another 70 kg.

Currently my OEM rear shock preload is fully loaded at max. (level 5) and get around 40 mm rider SAG when solo. If a loose the rear preload to level 3 or less my rider SAG increases to 50-60 mm.

So I suspect my OEM rear shock spring is too soft. I understand the OEM spring is on avg. progressive 110 KgNM.

If I go for RR2 suspension option I probably should choose 120 Knm spring, but for the RR1 shorter undecided between the 110-120 KGNM options.

Hi remurillo - this is one of the questions which comes up a lot, and again it's going to depend on your personal preference and ultimately the kind of riding you do MOST of the time...

A 110N/mm shock has approximately 10mm of preload adjustment (when can be achieved much more easily with the optional hydraulic preload adjuster of course), so that is going to allow for around 100Kg more weight between minimum and maximum setting - and so ought to be sufficient for your intended load of luggage and pillion.

Equally though, if you plan to ride two-up a lot, then the stiffer (120N/mm) spring is going to support that weight better, with more adjustment at the top end, to the detriment perhaps if you were riding completely solo, as it may feel a little stiff over rougher ground especially.

At the end of the day, all suspension [settings] is a compromise of sorts - particularly so on an 'adventure' bike where the terrain and load conditions can vary significantly, even during a single journey.

My suggestion would be if you mainly ride solo, got for the 110N/mm spring and set the base preload it so the sag is correct for you solo, and you can wind the preload up for when you have luggage and/or a passenger.

If you were prepping the bike specifically for a long distance trip with luggage and the two of you, then yes, the 120N/mm spring is likely to be preferable... and don't forget the alternative spring rates are also available from Rally-Raid should your overall riding circumstances change, and you can change the spring.

Jenny x

ps. if you do decide on the LEVEL 2 set-up after all, then I would probably still choose 110N/mm - as you want to be using all of that available extra travel, and have the bike sit more in the middle of the range for plushness... that is the spring rate I have on my bike, and have carried a passenger from time to time without bothering adjusting the preload.

7
Suspension / Re: RR1 level 1
« on: September 13, 2020, 06:31:43 PM »
Hi remurillo - I replied to your similar question on the other LEVEL 1 thread... copy below:

As Williamkevin says above, the LEVEL 1 shock is more than adequate for general rough-road riding, your only real limitation is the more limited ground clearance over more serious hazards, so you'll just have to be more careful in those few instances and pick your line and speed accordingly.

That said, the LEVEL 2 suspension is a far better option if you do plan to ride a higher proportion of rougher terrain - the extra travel and ground clearance, plus the extra oil capacity of the reservoir shock will resist fading for longer - typically if you were riding a lot of washboard piste at high speeds for example. And you also have individual damping control for the shock which will help you dial-in the compression and rebound characteristics more precisely, depending on how much load you are carrying.

As for your current centre stand, that wouldn't fit with the longer travel LEVEL 2 suspension anyway, but a far better solution is something like the Endurostar Trail stand if you ever do need to lift a wheel [indeed either wheel, and those on someone else's bike too] for maintenance or puncture repair. No one with a dual-sport bike doing this sort of trip has a centre stand either, and they manage perfectly well.

If you do decide to stick with the LEVEL 1 standard travel/ground clearance, I do suggest you fit a strong engine guard as you are that more likely to hit the undercarriage from time to time of course.

Hope that helps...

Jenny x


Jx

8
By all means start another thread, but it will just become as much of a mine-field as any other...

The problem with a windscreen on any bike is there are so many variables depending on the rider - your height, build, length of arm, width of shoulders, angle of bars, general stance; and not least the helmet you're wearing to name just a few...

Any recommendation is only only going to be appropriate if you match a good number of those same criteria, which is unlikely other than in the broadest sense - so there can never be one definite answer.

fwiw. it's certainly worth making suggestions based on the overall build quality and adjustability of a particular screen; and it is the degree of adjustability which I would suggest is the key - a screen which allows you to adjust the angle and even vary the amount of air travelling through/behind it is going to offer the widest range of solutions to an individual rider.

In that regard a number of people have found success with the clip-on style top lip, rather than the gamble of replacing the whole screen. You can even experiment yourself with some cardboard and duct tape beforehand to see which height/angle is most likely to help in your particular instance.

Jx

9
Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: does fender look right
« on: September 13, 2020, 06:19:17 PM »
I've found the Polisport 'SM Line' fender fits best on the CB500X - and clears with either the 2013-15 beak or the 2016-18.



However, although it is designed specifically for 'SuperMoto' 17" front wheels, I feel a high fender still might look a bit odd with a small front wheel, and would tend to agree with Edna:



Jenny x

10
Suspension / Re: My observations on Rally Raid Level 1 half kit install
« on: September 13, 2020, 05:54:05 PM »
*Originally Posted by remurillo [+]
I am on the verge between RR1 and RR2 levels. RR2 is my choice if I had not to give up my already installed jack and engine guard.
I have the following question on regards to the RR Tractive rear shock.
is the RR1 tractive rear shock and emulsion type shock. If it is emulsion I would disqualify this option as it tends to heat up much more than piston type shocks, therefore lasting less time.

My issue with RR2 is because I am in Colombia, need to import all items including RR Guard and give up the Jack.

My intention is to travel around Colombia unpaved roads and natural washed outs and obstacles. Where the RR2 upgrade would shine.

Hi remurillo - As Williamkevin says above, the LEVEL 1 shock is more than adequate for general rough-road riding, your only real limitation is the more limited ground clearance over more serious hazards, so you'll just have to be more careful in those few instances and pick your line and speed accordingly.

That said, the LEVEL 2 suspension is a far better option if you do plan to ride a higher proportion of rougher terrain - the extra travel and ground clearance, plus the extra oil capacity of the reservoir shock will resist fading for longer - typically if you were riding a lot of washboard piste at high speeds for example. And you also have individual damping control for the shock which will help you dial-in the compression and rebound characteristics more precisely, depending on how much load you are carrying.

As for your current centre stand, that wouldn't fit with the longer travel LEVEL 2 suspension anyway, but a far better solution is something like the Endurostar Trail stand if you ever do need to lift a wheel [indeed either wheel, and those on someone else's bike too] for maintenance or puncture repair. No one with a dual-sport bike doing this sort of trip has a centre stand either, and they manage perfectly well.

If you do decide to stick with the LEVEL 1 standard travel/ground clearance, I do suggest you fit a strong engine guard as you are that more likely to hit the undercarriage from time to time of course.

Hope that helps...

Jenny x


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