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Messages - gregjet

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Random Banter / Re: TV Soundbar
« on: January 14, 2019, 12:11:19 AM »
A basic stereo will have no better sound than the TV amps and speakers.
Radio/wireless/bluetooth headphones compress the dynamic range substantially, which for people with hearing problems is worse than medium priced speakers. Note that a Cheap amp nowdays ( ie a stand alone one) is going to have VERY reasonable specs. The biggest problem is always in the translation from electrical to physical audio. That is where the quality of speakers/headphones matters. Wired headphones of even medium quality ( $100 and above) will have very high specs and disable much ambient noise that will help aural discrimination. Bit fiddley to use though especially if others around ( very much a single person luxury).
Again check out second hand places and markets on the net.

Random Banter / Re: TV Soundbar
« on: January 13, 2019, 08:26:01 PM »
A subject on great love for me. Sound.
Benn a HiFi nut for a long time . My father's fault of course as we grew up with a Thorens top of the line ( when it was) turntable, dad made amp ( he was and electronic tech) and home made speakers the size of a washing machine ( yes speakers when almost everythine was mono). The whole family as musos.
While it is NOT true the biggest money buys the "best " sound, cheap speakers wil sound crap.
Unless you have very limited space proper sized speakers will simply give greater clarity when designed properly.
A theatre amp even 2 or 3 hundred bucks is the preferred way but simple high quality stereo usually will do a very fine job. MAKE sure the amp inputs match you TV outputs!
Avoid Yamaha speakers if possible as for the price they tend to be harsh and if you have hearing discrimination problems they can make it worse.
Now I can't give you a specific set of brands but try second hand, honestly. HiFi nuts tend to change their gear often and you can get very good quality for very cheap. Find a friend who listens and he ( or better she, women have better hearing, especially if trained ) should be a ble to help . A musican friend is always a good start, as they automatically listen well.
If it was me and I was on a budget I would go simple stereo. Better quality sound for a lot less money .
There ARE very good sound bars but they are going to cost you ( unless you can score a second hand one). Speakers do wear out ( actually the capacitors in the crossovers die over time from heat) but it takes a very long time.
My 2cents worth.

Tyres and Wheels / Re: Why do motorcycle tyres lose pressure?
« on: January 13, 2019, 08:07:44 PM »
For a start most gauges have more than 1psi inaccuracy and usually plus and/or minus one psi is way within tolerence.
What is more important is if it loses 1psi over a week and more ( eg. 2) over 2 weeks.
When you pump up a tyra the air has to be compressed to do it. It heats up in the process, you measure it warm and then over time it cools and the pressure lowers.
Your cool tyre pressures are some amounts higher once you ride and the tyre heats up creating higher pressures. The amount depends on the surface, ambient temperature and how hard you are riding it. There can be variations of several psi whilst riding.
Nitrogen does NOT run cooler ( P1V1/T1=P2V2/T2...ALL gases except helium) nor leak less ( in fact it can leak more through rubber, yes THROUGH, because of smaller molecular size compared with the average molecular size of air) .
If you have a consistant small leak, and the core isn't the problem , then some sealant can help if it is a bead seating, small puncture or porous wheel problem.

Tyres and Wheels / Re: Pirelli Scorpion Trail tires -- mileage?
« on: January 12, 2019, 07:47:01 PM »
Just do not forget that once the tyre is worn below the tread groves you are now on the carcass rubber, not tread rubber. The tread is a CAP over the carcass and the carcass usually have very low grip rubber ( that isn't what it is designed for).

Nice ideas Jonathan.
I am most interested in the Fosshape. I see that in my future.
If you go the carbon fibre route, consider one or two layers of Innegra in the middle of the layup. Cheaper( much) than carbon and almost as light , it helps reduce the brittleness of the carbon. It doesn't finish well, so is best in the non exposed layers ( or on the inside).
I like your design approach. Hard edge at the back could be annoying when riding, possibly. Might pay to body test it before commiting to the final shape?
Interesting adherence to Kraftwerk philosophy?
I wait to see more.
How do you access the tank filler?

Well I have that tank bag AND I have a cb500x...It fits well

I have had much success with a magnetic tank bag on the CBX. I had one for the TR650 though had to use straps because the tank/airbox was all plastic. Same on my other bikes. The steel tank works brilliantly with the magnets in the mount. I still use a clik strap around the headstock but I am beginning to think it is a bit superfluous as it doesn't move at all. Seconds to remove to fuel up.
This is the one I use. Lots of others :

 Almost all ( but not all) ECU reflashes I have had done have not yielded much in the way of top power. But they did make a huge difference ( every one ) to the rideablity of the bike. Virtually all fattened up the middle ( the important bit for the road. Top end is for the track). Some with huge improvements. Usually better fuel economy with richer fuelling ( sounds up side down doesn't it. But it isn't for a number of good physics/chem reasons). Some bikes went from impossibly snatchey throttles or simple running VERY badly at low revs and off closed throttle ( Yamaha MT07 and KTM 690 Duke noteably). Sally's KTM 690 Duke jumped all over the place at 60 kph and worse would stand up and run straight coming out of a corner from a trailing throttle, until it was reflashed
You can also keep the open/closed loop systems that improve cruising.
Sometimes things you think are clutch problems are closed/open throttle fuelling transitions.
The engineers DO know what they are doing. They are NOT making the bike rideable for you but making the bike consistantly meet ridiculous emissions stantards. NONE of these standards model correctly actual real world  running , so the final result is often worse pollution. Especially on motorcycles.
I will reflash mine as soon as I fine a reflasher I trust to do Honda's chastity belt ECU.

NOTE: I am actually going to make a rack where the rear seat cover is. I have done this post for those who may be concidering the CBR seat/rear seat swap.
As far as the two pieces in concerned, this turned out a little more complicated than I first thought. If you are not comfortable cutting and fine fitting stuff, this isn't for you.
When I first fitted the seat all I did was add a Al bar with 4 holes and a couple of spacers between the back of the seat and the cross bar Al piece I made.
When I tried to add the rear seat cover I bought from China , it got a touch more complicated. First the Clip in stuff WILL fit. So the really hard bit is fine.
However the CBR seat front lock tabs don't fit anywhere on the CBX. Luckily they WILL fit under the Al piece I made to support the seat. BUT if you are retaining the rear side panels you will have to carefully match the line of the edge of the seat cover to the panels to get it to fit. I also had to change the seat attachment so it bolted directly to the AL bar and put 25mm spacers UNDER the bar ( between the Bar and the frame to lift it high enough to get the front seat cover tabs under. I also had to cut and fair the front of the rubber back piece area and the rubber to fit, as well as cut down the back of the CBR seat where it bolts on. You need to fabricate som rubber spacers to go under between tthe seat cover clip on area and the frame to stop it rattleing.
If you are leaving the  The rear passanger handgrips on it would actuall look a bit tidier.
So now to go back to making the rear rack using the seat cover base.

This mod substantially improves standover height ( lower) and sits you furthur down into the bike for distance riding.

Tyres and Wheels / Re: Road 5's - worth the extra?
« on: January 07, 2019, 07:41:26 PM »
The cupping is not a common problem. Just noting that it occurs and is a bit more common on the 4's than usual for tyres in general.

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