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Rally Raid / Seat swap between the '19 and older models?
« on: March 30, 2019, 03:12:20 PM »
Hey Rally Raid, can the seats be swapped between the 2019 and older models? TIA.

The plastic quick mounts are the weak link. The Givi/Kappa (same company for those that don't know) racks are strong. Here is proof. My bike is suspended by the racks. I didn't use Givi/Kappa luggage because of the weak mounts. My mounts are steel on my cases. I carry roughly 60+lbs(27kg+) spread over my side cases and trunk.

Loaded for a week offroad in the woods. Probably over 60lbs across my cases and trunk.

Suspension / Race Tech suspension info, including CBR600 shock info.
« on: April 28, 2018, 10:06:59 PM »
I have had a few messages over the past year or so about my Race Tech suspension thread. I have yet to do any substantial suspension mods to my bike. All I have done is added a '99 CBR600F4 rear shock and 1 inch PVC spacers in the forks. I have collected some info that I will share here on the Race Tech front suspension and CBR shock build. Part numbers and prices that I could find are listed as well. I've also included info about the stock suspension. It may be sticky worthy.


Race Tech Suspension CB500X 2013-18

Fork Oil Level 130mm

Fork oil 10w= two liters required

Fork Showa 41C dampening rod= 41mm outside diameter/C= conventional fork with dampening rod internals

Stock spring rate 0.50kg/mm

Preload 15mm

Race Tech Spring size 34.7mm outside diameter  340mm length

Rider weight with luggage recommended spring rate with the part number. All springs list price at $129.99US. Iíve seen them as low as $79.99US. The last three digits of the part number are the spring weight rating. The first four numbers indicate the spring diameter and length. Iím not sure what the letters stand for. Same for shock springs.

150lbs/68kg= 80kg P/N FRSP S3534080 stiffer 85kg P/N FRSP S3534085

175lbs/79kg= 90kg P/N FRSP S3534090 stiffer 95kg P/N FRSP S3534095

200lbs/91kg=  1.00kg P/N FRSP S3534100

If you weigh more or need to carry more weight, youíll need to contact Race Tech directly to get a custom stiffer wound spring. Iím glad Iím losing weight.

Emulators P/N FEGV S4101 List price $169.99US. Iíve bought these for $89.99 for my Katana 750 forks I run on my GS5.

99-00 CBR600F4 Shock Info

Not for the faint of heart. <insert Dr. Evilís evil laugh here>

Race Tech rear shock is $1349.99 and you have to call them to have the shock built to your specs. A 99-00 CBR600F4 (not F4i) can be built with Race Tech parts for around $200-300US. You have to look around for the parts on sale. The reservoir hose will need to be lengthened two inches for good placement. My local hydraulic shop quoted $25 for a new hose built to 5000 psi burst pressure. The nitrogen charge is only 210psi.

Here are the part numbers and shock info.

Showa 40mm shock

Shock oil 2.5-5w less than 1 quart required

Springs list for $119.99. I havenít found these cheaper online, yet.

Stock CBR600 spring rate 14.2kg/mm to stiff for any rider with gear under 300lbs/113kg. It's to stiff for me at 230lbs in gear and 60lbs of luggage.

Replacement spring heavy rider 175lbs/79kg and up spring 12.5kg P/N SRSP 5815125

Light rider under 175lbs/79kg and lower 11.6kg P/N SRSP 5815116

Spring Adapter Collar P/N SPSC B5855N qty 1 required $3.99US Needed for springs using SRSP P/N.

Spring Adaptor Collar P/N SPSC B5552N qty 1 required $2.99US Needed for springs using SRSP P/N.

Must purchase P/N SMRC 40501 Reservoir Cap when upgrading shock.

Gold Valve Kit P/N SMGV S4005 $169.99 I have found it for $109.99US.

Shock oil and dust seal set P/N SSOS 14S $23.99US- Replace. These can get damaged during disassembly.

Shock shaft busing P/N SMSB 1412 $9.99US- I would replace. Can be replaced as needed.

Bottom out bumper- call them for the right one for your set up, if it needs replacing. They have several. Some can allow for more travel. Not much though. A few mm at most.

Reservoir bladder P/N SSBL 405080 $19.99US- This is usually replaced as needed. For $20,replace it.

Reservoir bladder cap P/N  SMRC 40501 $29.99US- Replace as needed. Donít use a damaged or corroded one. They can leak oil.

The shock nitrogen can be recharged at local motorcycle shops and some welding supply shops. There are videos on the internet showing how to rebuild the shock, install the emulator kit, and prep the shock for modifications. I recommend a good motorcycle shock spring compressor and a good vice with soft jaws preferably nylon or similar. Also, now is a good time to paint the shock and spring some wild colors. Make sure to tape off the bearing holes and chrome shaft before painting. Clean and add fresh grease to the bearing holes before reinstalling.

This is not the end all be all suspension setups. Itís for the people that donít mind tinkering and tweaking their suspension until perfect.

Consider this as me thinking out loud.

It seems, that cams are the place to tweak for more power down low. The CB-X, CBR, CB-F all use the same cams.

CB X, F, R cam part numbers.
14210-MGZ-J00 Exhaust
14110-MGZ-J00 Intake

The Rebel CMX500 uses a different intake cam and the Rebel is known to make good power down low. It's one of the positives about the small cruiser. The other good part is the cam price, at least for us in the US. I could be open to trying out the cam. I'm not sure if it would throw off a sensor and not run. I don't think our bikes have intake cam sensors. I'll have to look into that. I believe the lift is the same as the CB-X, F, R but the duration and/or timing is different.
PN 14110-MKG-A00 $41.36

Now the head-scratcher. Which PGM-FI unit? I think the part numbers are different for the different tuning. It could also be that the tuning is the same but the wiring connector could be different. Does anyone know or have a way to confirm? If the connectors are all the same, then the tuning is the reason for the varied part numbers. Could the connectors be repinned to use the CMX connector and PGM-FI unit? I know a lot of bikes can be IF the terminals are the same. They should be.

PGM-FI part numbers and prices.
CB-X 38770-MGZ-C93 $212.16
CB-R and F 38770-MGZ-A03 $212.44
CMX Rebel 38770-MKG-A02 $176.19

For those that want to go all out, there is a company, Wiseco, that makes high compression pistons. Combine that with the CMX Rebel cam, CMX PGM-FI if it will connect, good flowing exhaust, and good air filter, the CB-X should have good bottom end due to the cam and the hi-comp pistons will help the top end loss. 

No affiliation but I have run their products in motorcycles and cars with great success.
STD bore

0.50 overbore

Could it be as simple as a cam swap and PGM-FI to get better low-end performance? For $41.36 + 176.19 = $217.55 + 8.95 shipping $226.50 This could be a good deal to up low-end performance without much investment and no changes to the exhaust (for those that like it quite) or air intake. I am currently finishing up my workshop. Once I am all set up, I may seriously consider trying this out and maybe later I could go with high comp pistons, exhaust, and air filter. I really think the OE air filter and airbox can flow enough to support the changes. Maybe a K&N for the street riders.

My Honda parts pricing comes from the link below. I'm just a satisfied customer. They've always gone out of their way to get parts to me quickly without additional costs.

Maintenance and Servicing / Battery sale for those in need.
« on: March 12, 2018, 07:38:47 PM »
I know a lot of guys have been having battery issues. There's a big sale on Scorpion AGM batteries right now for $41.95 with no tax with free priority shipping. The oldest one I had lasted over five years. It would have made it longer had I not neglected to put the trickle charger on it while I was away from motorcycling for a year. These are OE style replacement batteries. I have no affiliation with this company. I'm just a thoroughly satisfied customer. They have stood behind their products and sales the one time I had an issue.

Japanese products do not use Philips head fasteners. They use JIS or J.I.S. known as Japanese Industrial Standard. The problem most people experience when using a Philips screwdriver in a JIS screw is cam out also known as "striping out" the screw head. A Philips screwdriver can't deliver the torque to the entire seat of the JIS screw. It barely catches the corners and thus rounds out the seat when the screwdriver is turned. The reason is the length and angle of the screwdriver tip versus the seat of the JIS screw head. A Philips screw head has a tiny bit steeper angle and a deeper seat. The JIS screw has a shallower and a slightly less steeply angled seat. Looking at the screwdrivers side by side shows this. However, when it comes to the larger JIS, sometimes referred to as a number 3, #3, or 3x100mm, there's a neat trick if you can't find the larger size JIS screwdriver. A #3 Philips is so close to fitting that it's not hard to make it fit. All that's need is a bit of filing or grinding of the tip. It needs just enough to put a small flat on the tip. Is it a perfect fit, no, but in a pinch, it works.

Here's a link to the screwdrivers I have.

And a pic of the difference in screwdrivers.

In 2016, Honda upgraded the shifting on the CB500X. These parts can be used to upgrade the shifting on the 13-15 bikes. A forewarning, this upgrade requires removing the clutch basket from the engine. It does NOT require the cases to be slit nor does it require any major engine disassembly. It can all be done by removing the right side engine side cover. I haven't made this modification yet. It is on my list for when the clutch needs to be serviced.

Flexiflyer over on advrider helped me gather the info and parts needed to make the modification.The parts that need to be changed are.

Center, Shift Drum

Stopper, Shift Drum


When I last checked parts prices, they were around $35 shipped from Honda Parts Direct in Palestine, TX. For those in the US. For those across the pond, check out our sponsor North West Honda in the vendor's section of the forum.

Here is a pic of the Honda factory service manual showing the parts that are to be replaced.

Random Banter / Bad news/Good news At least I know now.
« on: July 29, 2017, 06:54:18 PM »
Yesterday, I had a doctors appointment. I've been under going tests for the past four months for some very odd health issues that have plagued me since I was a child. I'm 40 now.

The doctor gave me some bad news and some good news. He has diagnosed me with a tumor on my pituitary gland. That's the bad news. The good news is, the tumor seems to be benign. He expects that I should make a full recovery. Unfortunately, most of next week will be more testing to figure out how large the tumor is and if it's stable. He also needs to know if it has attached itself to my spinal cord or brain. I won't know for a few weeks until the doctor gets the test results back.

The current plan is to use medications to shrink the tumor into non-existence. If that does not work, then my other option is surgery. I don't like the thoughts of surgery. If it comes to that, they will do it through the front and/or side of my neck. It's the least risky way and it would be an orthoscopic surgery.

I am happy to finally figure out why I've had all these odd random health problems through out my life. Now I am ready to take care of this and move on to a better healthier future.

Maintenance and Servicing / Water pump and coolant replacement info.
« on: July 28, 2017, 02:55:19 AM »
This is not a how to. This is just an informative post for those that would like to know what is involved in making this repair. I ass-u-me that if you're going to under take this repair, you have knowledge of cooling systems and how they work. All specs stated here come directly from the Honda CB-X/F/R service manual.

If you have been reading around the forum or advrider, you know a few of us have been having water pump issues. The issue is the water pump shaft. It's bent just enough to wallow out the bushing on the inside of the water pump. Then coolant leaks out of the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. The bushing is a tight fit on the shaft and that acts as a seal to keep coolant in. On the other side of the pump body where the shaft exits, there is an internal shaft oil seal and an O ring to seal the water pump body to the engine case. The oil seals seemed to do good.

Just a heads up, never use tap or well water in a cooling system. If you have to use water to get home or to a repair facility, only use distilled water. Tap or well water will have chemicals and minerals in it that can damage the engine's aluminum components and can cause gasket failure. If you're stuck and have to use whatever water you can find, make doubly sure the cooling system is flushed thoroughly before adding the fresh coolant.

You need to know that the service manual states that an occasional drip is normal. It does not state how much is too much. I was losing a quart of coolant over 50 to 100 miles. The system holds 1.5 US quarts (1.4 liters or 1.2 imperial quarts). The coolant reservoir holds at the upper-level mark .13 quarts (.12 liters or .11 imperial quarts). I feel that if the reservoir needs to be topped off every 10,000 miles(16,093km) that the system needs to be checked out.

OK, let's get to it.

The bike will need to be on the center stand or in some way securely supported upright and level front to back and left to right. A little nose down would help when draining the coolant and a little nose up will help the trapped air come to the top when filling the system with coolant. When the water pump is removed, the engine will lose about a half pint of oil. There is no need to drain the oil. Just be aware and have a drain pan under the engine.

The lower cowl will have to be removed. Both frame side covers need to be removed and the right middle cowl to gain access to the radiator cap and the reservoir fill cap. If you have Hepco Becker engine guard, the left one will have to be removed. The left foot peg bracket needs to be removed along with the shifter rod. I remove my shift rod at the top on the engine. I marked the split in the clamp, with a scribe, on the shaft. The sprocket cover needs to be removed and the wiring needs to be moved out of the way. No wiring has to be disconnected, only unclipped from the sprocket cover. There are two cooling system draining points, one on the water pump and one on the front of the cylinder block. Since the system needs to be drained, might as well drain the cylinder block as well. This way the entire system has fresh fluid. To drain the system, the radiator cap has to be removed or the system air locks and won't drain. Kind of like putting your finger over the top of a drinking straw and then lifting it out, no drink leaves the straw. Removing the cap causes the coolant to shoot about two feet out of the water pump. It makes a mess if you're not prepared for it. The pics will tell the tale. I also installed a new chain in the process.

Water pump drain bolt.

Resulting mess after removing the radiator cap and releasing the air lock. I knew better but was in a hurry.

Cylinder block drain point is behind the right side header. It uses a copper washer as a seal. Be careful not to loose or damage it. I reused mine with no problems. It is a 10mm bolt and can only be removed with a short 10mm wrench. The torque spec on this I couldn't find but it's about a 1/4 turn past snug.

Once everything is removed, it's time to remove the water pump.It's as simple as removing three hoses and three small bolts. To remove the hoses, move the clamps up the hoses a couple inches( a few mm). Push the hoses down and twist back and forth. My hoses came right off.

Water pump weep hole. The shaft isn't even bent enough to see, but it is.

New water pump time! It comes with a new o-ring to seal the water pump housing to the engine case. What ever you do, resist the urge to disassemble the new water pump. The bolts have a thread sealant on them. I noticed it when I removed the drain bolt on the old pump.

This thing is almost too pretty to put on my old dirty CB.

New seal comes installed. Just give it a good coating of oil so it will slide in without damaging it. Notice the copper washer on the drain bolt.

Here are the specs for installing the water pump. I don't know why my phone makes white stuff blue. The manual was laying on the tailgate of my truck in the shade of my car port.

Here's a link to my album with more pics. I didn't want to overload this post with pics.

I'll be reassembling the body work over the weekend and doing a test ride. I'm hoping to go to an advrider lunch meet up Saturday the 5th of August. if anyone in SC, or surrounding areas, is interested, I'll post the info. All riders are welcome.

CB500X - General Chat / ATTENTION! Check your rear subframe bolts!
« on: July 28, 2017, 01:20:03 AM »
If you ride with a passenger or carry gear on the back of your CB, check your rear subframe bolts. My upper bolts have come loose and allowed the rear subframe to move around. The torque value is 44ftlbs or 60nm. There are four, two upper and two lower. The lowers are still at the proper torque.

Pics of the uppers and the movement they have gone through.

Right upper bolt.

Left upper bolt.

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