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Topics - Twempie

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After a low speed tip-over, with Barkbuster Storms installed on OEM 7/8 bars, the bolts on the handlebar clamp got damaged (a little bent). These were easily replaced, but the expansion sleeve was twisted as well.

I'm trying to track down the correctly sized replacement sleeve kit. I think the Barkbuster part number I need is B-027, but can't be sure from the many descriptions out there. Anyone know if this is correct?

I contacted Barkbuster and Twisted throttle a couple of days ago with this question, but no response (I know, I know... Covid staffing shortages).

Ride Reports, Trips, and Touring / Forest Service Roads and Mountaintops
« on: October 01, 2020, 09:19:35 PM »
I took the Rally Raid L2 X out yesterday.

Me being laid off, and my buddy retired from the Navy, we took advantage of emptier mid-week trails (the KTM is his 70th birthday present to himself). The trails were still damp from recent rains and were in great condition having next to no dust (hence the clean looking bikes). I was able to dial in my Level 2 suspension to a satisfactory setting for these roads.

We tooled around the forest service roads around Quilcene, and then up to Obstruction Point, Washington State. The smoke you see is from California wildfires.

Rally Raid / Deeper Steering Stem Nut
« on: August 20, 2020, 03:33:58 AM »
When lining up the front end (loosen everything and re-torque), the only way I've been able to access/tighten the stem nut is by removing the handlebars and hanging them over the front of the bike. There's next to no room for a 30mm socket on a torque wrench or breaking-bar to tighten the nut.

If the steering stem nut was slightly deeper, perhaps a 30mm ring spanner may fit in the gap.

Question. Has anyone tried this, and does it work?

Exploring the Olympic Peninsula, with blind corners and full-size pickups.

As chance would have it, two X's heading West.

Washington State Fauntleroy-Vashon-Southworth Ferry, West Seattle to the Olympic Peninsula.

Rally Raid / New Prospect.
« on: July 09, 2020, 06:31:20 PM »
Iíve just ordered my Level 2 kit. Itíll keep me busy during house arrest, and Iím looking forward to being patched in after I remove those security bolts. LOL.

Similar to Mosko Moto, probably heavier than Giant Loop, this appeared in my inbox the other day.

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / PSR Dual Sport Rack
« on: February 18, 2020, 03:19:33 AM »
This post is in the spirit of Giant Loop's going light, fast and far, and my attempt to increase the amount of tie down locations for soft luggage.

I prefer soft luggage when it makes sense, but strapping can be a bit time consuming to load and unload from the machine. The rear bags I use are a Kreiga 20 for farting around and, for longer jaunts, I have a Giant Loop Mojave, a Rogue drybag and a couple of Possibles Pouches... and a sh#tload of drybags from a previous life of sea kayaking. Lots of combinations, but the limited tie down points on my X generally shave some of the "fast" out of the equation.

So, I decided on getting the rear OEM rack to move the soft luggage back and away from my body (the rack was advertised to fit a 2015 model, but works on my 2018 just fine. Thanks for the advice Jenny.) The rack worked OK, but there still weren't enough tie down points for my liking.

The OEM rack replaces the pillion's grab handles. The four holes are threaded M8-1.25.

A little research led me to the PSR Dual Sport Luggage Rack, which can be found almost anywhere on the web, it's well made and comes with all sorts of bolt holes, and provides multiple purchase points for soft luggage.

This shows the depth of the PSR rack.

I was thinking of a plate to attach the PSR to the OEM rack, but wanted to lose as few purchase points as possible. So I employed the help of one of my mates (who has a machine shop in his garage) to help with making countersunk discs (his idea, not mine).

The front discs were trimmed. I may paint the discs black at a later date.

The holes in the OEM rack are tapped (which helps hold the discs in place) and M8-1.25 bolts are threaded through. Washers, spring washers and Nylocks underneath hold it all together. The OEM rack is fatter at the front than the rear, the longer bolts were taken from my box of misfit tools, so those don't look as professional a finish as the rear bolts.

You're going to have to take my word for it that the Mojave fits well to the new rack, but here is how a Kreiga 20 is attached.

This shows how far back the soft luggage can be installed.

Rally Raid / Level 1 Shopping List
« on: January 28, 2020, 06:11:08 AM »
Hi Jenny,

Iíve been regularly adding bits and pieces to my 2018 X, and almost done with farkling, happy with the bike's set-up for multi-day/long-distance trips, and how it rides on the OEM wheels. At the time of writing, it seems logical for me to choose a Level 1 upgrade.

Because of the cost involved, I was thinking of buying the wheels first and then the suspension. Do you think thatís a good way to go?

As far as I can tell, this is all I need:
Level 1 CB500X Adv Tubeless Wheel Kit-RRP 597 (tyres will be bought locally)
ABS front disc ring  RRP 501
Level 1 Fork Upgrade Kit RRP 460
Level 1 Tractive Shock RRP 459 (and sock)
Optional, but makes sense to get the Tractive Hydraulic Preload Adjuster Honda CB500X-RRP 531
Honda Rear Brake Reservoir Guard RRP 442

Seeing I haven't been able to find any specific installation threads for my 2018 CB500X, I thought this may help others out.

Grips Installation notes:
I followed the manufacturer's instructions and used the supplied superglue. I used a pencil mark on each instrument cluster as a guide when I slid the grips on to the bars. I cleaned the handlebar and throttle tube with rubbing alcohol before applying glue.

The left grip was a tight fit, so I slid the grip on half-way and only applied glue to the inner half of the handlebar.

The right grip slid easily on to the throttle tube so, again, I followed the manufacturers instructions and applied glue to the full length of the throttle tube.

Grip size comparision. OEM on left, Oxford Heaterz Premium Touring Heated Grips on right.

Old grip measurement

Right Grip. Screwdriver and squirting WD40 between the grip and throttle tube using the skinny red straw that comes stuck to the WD40 can. Gently remove the grip, and avoid damage to the throttle tube.

Inner flange holds on OEM grips.

Grip removed. Bumps and both inner and outer flanges need to be removed. I used a Dremel Tool, rasp and foam-backed coarse sandpaper. Don't get carried away when sanding. The powdered plastic gets everywhere. Wear a mask and I used plumbers tape in various configurations to stop the plastic going in between the throttle tube and the handlebars. This is how I masked for removing the inner flange.

I was a little ham-fisted when removing the inner flange. I used a cutting tool on the dremel and thought I had cut enough to pull away the plastic. As you can see, I also pulled away some of the throttle tube.

Left grip is easier, just cut it off and remove any glue residue with alcohol.

Left grip installed. Make sure the clutch lever does not hit the cable attachment on the grip. The seam on the grip lined up with my pencil mark. You can see that below.

Right grip installed. I left a gap to accommodate the Atlas Throttle Lock. In retrospect, I was a little over cautious when making sure the bottom wire of the grip was rotated far enough way from the brake lever, it sticks back a little further than perfect, but nothing I can worry about now.

The "smart" controller comes with a mounting plate and spacers that fit nicely on to the mirror handlebar clamp.

The manufacturer also recommends heat-shrinking the connectors. Three connectors, only one way to hook them together, and neatly tied under the front of the bike.

The Atlas Throttle Lock. A Kickstarter endeavour by RTW travellers David and Heidi Winters. A well thought out device that comes in a "top kit" and "bottom kit". I installed the top kit to accommodate the heated grips. I have to say the customer service from Josh Hopkins, Atlas' Rider Support Manager was outstanding.

The lock works by friction, and fitting the friction pads involves a little trial and error. Various sized pads come with the kit. I found sticking the two thinnest pads together was a good starting point. I'll see how the lock works with that setup, and if I need to modify with thicker pads in the future. The installation also involves a small allen headed screw that comes pre-threadlocked (the kit comes with a spare, should you need to adjust your setup). The installation is easy if you follow the instructions, but be careful not to strip the screw head, it's small - an M3. If you take your time, you should have no problem.

This is my first trial of where the Atlas will be positioned. I opened the throttle 3/4 of the way and roughly guessed where it would be most comfortable to engage and disengage the lock.

There is a gap between the instrument cluster and the Atlas, so the throttle has no chance of sticking.

Atlas Throttle Lock, front view.

Atlas Throttle Lock, showing friction pad.

Oxford heated grip, Atlas throttle lock and Barkbuster Storm handguards.

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