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Topics - timur

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CB500X - General Chat / Copy of CB500X/F??
« on: April 18, 2020, 11:54:26 AM »
Just found this article about new chinese brand Voge (Loncin "luxury" brand) and it called my attention because their 500cc bikes are almost exact copy of CB500X/F range. Engine bore/stroke, cranckcase, clutch cover, diamond frame, subchasis - everything is identical (except suspensions). What happens there? Is it an imitation or Loncin bought license to produce Honda based engine?

It resembles the strategy of Renault when they created Dacia brand - cheap and simple cars designed by Renault but produced in Dacia. I wonder if the same thing happened here...

P.D. Just found owner manual for their 500R bikes and it seems to be the same engine but produced by other manufacturer (Loncin I suppose). Oil change interval - every 5000kms, valve clearance inspection - every 5000kms, etc. Definitely its's not Honda manufactured engine - now everything has sense. It's a sort of low-fi version of CB - that's why it's so cheap.

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / CB500X frame material
« on: January 03, 2020, 10:13:27 PM »
Hi folks! I wonder if somebody knows what type of steel is used in CB500X frame. I suppose it should be some low alloy steel (AISI 41XX or similar). Need to check the mod I'm making to my bike - would be reassuring to know it won't fall apart after a while. Searched in Holy Google but seems to be top secret info  :027:



Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Linear steering damper
« on: November 30, 2019, 01:00:33 PM »
Hi guys! I wonder if somebody mounted linear damper on their CB500X. Seems difficult - there is no much room there. And Scotts damper is too expensive and need RRP triple to be installed.


On Two Wheels / 2020 Tracer 700
« on: November 07, 2019, 12:37:59 PM »
Am I the only one who thinks Tracer 700 2020 would be a perfect light touring bike? It has the same weight that CB500X, almost same seat height, slightgly longer wheelbase, 75HP... And at last Yamaha introduces cartridges into front fork (with rebound and preload adjustment) and adjustable rear suspension.

I think it has the same philosphy that previous versions of CB500X but with bit more HP - practical, nimble bike and a lot of fun. Really considering it as replacement to my beloved Honda...



Suspension / Nitron shock
« on: October 01, 2019, 06:58:40 PM »
Hello everybody! About a week ago I purchased a Nitron NTR1 shock and at last it arrived. I replaced it in 20 minutes (my record time - I was really impatient :001:) and took a short ride to check how it works. And what a difference - it definitely worths any euro spent in it! I should state that my previous shock was a RRP Lvl1 and it it was great but too offroad biased for my taste. That was the reason to purchase 100% road oriented product and adjusted for my weight and ride style.

So I'm impressed with the ride quality it gives. It has sporty feel and at the same time it's silky smooth - my spine is no longer smashed on bumps at 140km/h. This was my biggest complain with RRP shock - too many compression damping for asphaltic use made it bit tiresome for me. Its characteristics are better suited for tarmac - the ride is a kind of low passing flight now. This weekend will test it on my favourite route but the first impression is very positive. Negative things - the bike seems to be very slow now  :745:


Suspension / RRP fork springs alternatives
« on: September 27, 2019, 11:35:00 AM »
Hello folks! I wonder if somebody tried to replace the original RRP fork springs for another ones with higher ratio. I think that for 100% road use a pair of decent 8.5 N/mm linear spings could be a good idea.

There is a bunch of manufacturers that offers a variety of spings - Matris, Racetech, Wilbers, Sonic, etc. My biggest concern is the rebound damping - in theory stiffer springs will need more rebound damping ergo higher viscosity oil is requiered. And CB fork with shim stack valves don't digest well higher viscosity oil.

Any experience regarding this modifications will be appreciated.



Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / TYGA carbon mudguard
« on: August 06, 2019, 06:24:44 PM »
For those who loves carbon fiber parts (I'm crazy about carbon. Many years worked with composite materials - it gave meaning to my life  :001:) - TYGA has rear and front mudguards for CB500X, CBR500 and CB500F. When my OEM front mudguard cracked I bought a replacement on TYGA web and after 25000km I never regretted my decision. For offroad it's not a good idea due to its fragility but it works great on tarmac - less unsuspended mass (almost nothing), less noise on bumps an it looks cooool:


Rally Raid / RRP rear shock maintenance
« on: July 21, 2019, 07:01:05 PM »
Hello RRP owners! I'd like to share some thoughts about my experience with RRP Level 1 rear shock after 2 years of very intense use.

I installed it on my beloved CB500X and the first 20000 km it was silky smooth. The problems started when I made 22000 km - uncontrolled rear wheel hops on rugged tarmac and pogoing in corners. I swaped back to the stock rear shock and the problem dissapeared. I'm aware that RRP recommends to overhaul the rear shock every 30000 km but in my case only 22000km was enough to KOing the rear suspension. I should state that I never did offroad with my CB500X - only tarmac roads, most of them in very poor condition and at very fast pace. Anyway - still thought that 22000 is way too early for the rear shock wear.

I wrote to Tractive asking for maintenance service - I live in Spain and I was expecting they indicates me the manner to do it - sending it to the Tractive, to their authorised dealer in Spain or any other option. They never replied me and finally I found near Madrid a suspension tuning workshop where I could overhaul it for 130 euros.

Even so - 130 euros every 22000 km seems to be a lot for a rear shock that costs about 500 euros and it's supposed to be reliable enough to withstand the offroad abuse. All of this taking in account that you couldn't make the overhaul by yourself - I have not met anyone until now who has a nitrogen charge equipment in their house or garage. So you need to remove the shock from your bike, take it to the workshop, install it again, etc.

Meanwhile my RRP shock is awaiting the repair in my kitchen and I'm still thinking if it worths the money it costs  - now I'm using the stock rear shock and while it works well I'll continue with it. And I'm seriously considering to buy a Wilbers full adjustable shock for the next year. 


Maintenance and Servicing / Water pump repair
« on: July 20, 2019, 01:07:04 PM »
Well - the infamous water pump seal strikes again and month ago my CB500X 2017 became a new victim. I live in Spain and the price of new water pump reach almost 300 euros here. 300 euros is enough money to encourage for looking the solution so I purchase a new pump in USA (120 euros) and once removed the old pump I dissassemble it. It's quite straightforward task but there is some tricks to be aware. And here the results:

- The pump can be disassembled without damage. First of all - remove the pump cover. When you removed the cover you will see the impeller. To access to the seals you should remove the impeller. To remove the impeller you need 6-7mm diameter and 160 mm long steel rod or similar. Introduce the rod in a hollow pump shaft. You need to hammer it gently - the rod will pushing the impeller out of the shaft. In my case case 4 hammer fists was enough to remove it.

- With the impeler removed you can continue with the seals. This step doesn't requiere any special tool - the only rule is not to damage the pump body or seal mounting surfaces machined in the pump body.

A lot of antifreeze incrustations can be seen on the water seal - an indicator of the problem.

- So you disassembled the pump without breaking it and without hammering you fingers - congratulations  :046:

- Now - with any siutable tool you need to round a bit the chamfer for the oil seal mounting inside pump body. I mean - in its original state the chamfer has very sharp edges and if you try to insert the oil seal the seal will be damaged (don't ask me how I know it XDD). And be extremely carefull to don't scratch the polished surface where the seal is inserted - it might leaks if the surface is scratched.

- The next step is to clean it with hot water and soap - my pump has a lot of aluminium chips inside it due to the defective cleaning of the engine during manufacturing process. I think this was a real reason for the seal leak - aluminium chips in antifreeze.

- Once you cleaned everything it's time to mount new seals. The seals you need for the pump are the next one - 19217-MAL-300 for the ceramic water seal and 91201-MV4-003 for the oil seal (any 12 26 7 double leap seal should works fine here).

- Before mounting oil seal you need to prepare your mounting tool. I bought 8mm diameter threaded rod and a pair of 20mm washer and 8mm nuts - as you can see is a sort of seal driver. It will helps you to mount the seals without damaging it. Use a proper nut socket as adaptor to the seal diameter.

- Put a little amount of mineral oil over the mounting surface of the oil seal and introduce it in the pump body with a tool (or a precise hammer fists)

- Introduce the water seal with the tool - in this case the tool is very important - water seal has steel casing so a minor misaligment can damage it. This is the reason why a tool is recomendable - it will avoid the possible misalignment during the installation (you can do it with a vice too). Use a proper nut socket.

- Remove the old ceramic seal inside the impeller. Clean the seal mounting surface with a fine sandpaper. Wash it with hot water and soap and install new ceramic seal.

- Once you have all the components installed it's time to put back the impeller. In my case I made it with the hammer - I haven't a vice so a hammer was my next option. There is an important thing you sould have in account - the position of  the impeller is very important. Correct clearance between pump body and the impeller is vital to the proper functioning of the pump. The best thing you can do is to measure this clearance BEFORE you removed the impeller. In my case I left about  0.8 mm of clearance between impeller and pump body - seems to be OK, the impeller doesn't touch pump cover nor pump body.

And finally we have the pump repaired XD. It's time to open a bottle of cold beer and to contemplate your masterpiece - you've just repaired your pump.


Suspension / RRP Level 1 fork kit revalving
« on: July 19, 2019, 07:52:57 PM »
Hello folks! I'd like to share my experience with RRP fork kit tuning. I put a kit 2 years ago - with only 2000 km on odometer. I was quite happy with the result but I realize that for intense tarmac use the settings wasn't the best one so I decide to modify the settings. My principal use of the bike is on secondary roads at spirited pace, city commuting and some long trips on average spanish roads and highways.

First of all - Im not a professional tuner - only a bored aeronautical stress engineer XDD So I bought a license for ShimRestackor to get starting (I'm familiar with traditional damping rod fork tuning but not with shim stacks).  And I should recognise that it was a great deal - helps a lot when you are trying to compare different stack options before dissasemble the fork.

After 4 iterations (first of them was quite disastrous  :110: ) I arrived to my actual setting - it feels with enough low speed compression damping for bike motion control during braking and sweepers and it allows me to go trough poor tarmac road roads at 130-140 km/h without losing a grip at the corners. The next iteration is aimed to increase high speed compression damping and to decrease a bit low speed compression damping for more comofortable long trips. My actual setting for the RRP kit is the next:

- Oil - Motul Expert 5W. Viscosity - 3.9 cSt at 100 and 17.9 cSt at 40. 420ml each leg.

- Stack:
ID ------ OD ------- Thickness
12          30             0.15
12          30             0.15
12          30             0.15
12          24             0.15
12          24             0.15

- Low speed compression bleed holes:
Two 1mm diameter holes in each valve plate for low speed damping. This is the most delicate point because it's not reversible.

The result is quite good, anyway my intention is to continue with the search of the perfect setting. As mentioned - high speed compression is enough for average tarmac but when a sudden big bump is encountered the fork is bottoming (yes - some spanish roads have big sudden bumps when less expected so the suspension should ocassionaly deal with them). IMHO this setting is very road biased but for poor tarmac surface more high speed compression damping is need. The next fork oil change I will modify again the valving and I'll comment the result here.


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