Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - JMo

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 157
Suspension / Re: harsh std suspension
« on: Today at 05:42:39 PM »
*Originally Posted by phattanglo [+]
Cheers Jenny,
You are right of course, I suppose I was hoping that as it was purely for road use I would be able to work miracles by spending a pound and a penny :008:

Yes, unfortunately the same principles still apply whether you're riding on the road (or track) or off-road... the only real difference is the amount of travel (so that the bike floats more between the two extremes and therefore less likely to top or bottom out over rougher terrain), and that generally speaking you don't get quite the same dramatic difference in obstacle size on paved roads, so the high speed and low speed compression damping settings tends to be closer to one another than might be required with a bike being used over rougher terrain/off road.

for info. Ultimately the reason John and I developed the 'LEVEL 2' specification for the CB (that is 170mm travel each end) is because we felt that is what was required (and dictated by the geometry available from the chassis without extensive modifications) for more serious off-road use; while because the LEVEL 1 set-up is limited to the standard travel length of the bike (primarily to retain the original seat height), it is more suited to more general on-road and mild trail use. With care you can still ride a LEVEL 1/standard travel bike on more serious terrain of course, but you will be limited by the comparative lack of ground clearance and ultimately the length of travel available to cushion the ride, particularly at higher speeds and/or over rougher terrain.

Hope that helps!

Jenny x

Suspension / Re: harsh std suspension
« on: Today at 04:25:28 PM »
Hi Phattanglo... the stock suspension on these bikes has always been very basic, and if you scoot around this forum or any other, then other than oil and tyres, it's the #1 discussion subject typically... with any number of potential solutions.

Ultimately though, if you want an appreciable improvement in suspension, then you're going to have to spend some money...

You're correct in your assumption that the earlier bikes particularly had a marked step in their progressive rate, from very soft initially, to quite hard approximately a 3rd of the way through the stroke - with no real mid-range transition. However simply swapping those 'progressive' OEM springs for linear springs and nothing else is either going to result in stiffer suspension throughout the stroke, or softer suspension which potentially blows through all it's travel - especially if you're a heavier rider.

What you need in conjunction with linear springs is an improvement in damping control - not just to control the spring, but to help cushion the compression when a larger vs smaller hit is experienced - and this is why the Rally-Raid fork kit [for example] comes with replacement damper rods and shim stack valving, to flow and control the oil to match their springs.

Also, if you are not aware, the RR LEVEL 1 fork and shock are available separately if you wish to spread the cost of your upgrades - and I always say their fork kit is probably the best £300 you can spend on these bikes - although it is likely to then highlight how poor the OEM rear shock is too of course.

Hope that helps... as I say, there are a number of potential solutions out there if you noodle around in the Suspension section of this forum, but the Rally-Raid fork kit is well proven and arguably the best since it is the only complete kit which was designed to integrate all it's individual components.

Jenny x

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: 2020 Handlebars
« on: November 23, 2020, 12:50:33 AM »
Both Rental and ProTaper have a size chart on their respective websites... I'd measure the stock bars as accurately as you can, then cross-reference them with what's available - with perhaps a slight change in rise or sweep if that is your preference.

for info. RC High bend Renthals work well on the RR converted bikes, and the 2019-on models have a similar height bar riser to the RR billet ones you got on the earlier models, so they ought to swap over.

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

ps. Personally I like the ProTaper EVO ADV bars (90mm rise version) on my own bike, which have a more similar sweep to the OEM 2013-18 bars, while the Renthal RC High have a straighter sweep.

As I say, take a look at the Renthal website for their different bend/height/width options:

Ride Reports, Trips, and Touring / Re: Dirt road runnin
« on: November 20, 2020, 05:09:10 PM »
*Originally Posted by Drklynoon [+]
Jenny (Thee Jenny? WOW I am humbled), You are absolutely right on. I have a set of TKC 80's that I got with the bike but haven't put them on just yet. I don't know much about the Michelin but if you are recommending them then there really isn't higher praise.

The tire pressure is absolutely too high for playing in the dirt and before I head off for trail riding I will certainly follow your advice and drop them. The bike is tubeless which I'm a little unsure if I like or not. I know its easier to fix a straight puncture but seating the tire to the rim can be a pain.

I really appreciate you taking the time to reply, I am flabbergasted to be honest.

Happy to help ;o)

Yes, my personal preference is for the TKC80s - they work very well on these bikes, both on and off-road. I fitted a set of Anakee Wilds half way through a trip this summer (as Juan had snaffled the last set of TKCs in the shop ;o), and have also been impressed with them on the dirt - they just don't feel quite as sure-footed on the road I find.

for info. I have a tubeless rear wheel on my bike these days (the front is still my original tube type), and it really isn't an issue... a bike this size and weight shouldn't really ever require you to drop lower than 20psi anyway, and that is enough to keep a tubeless bead seated.

Fixing a typical [nail/screw] puncture is a breeze with the tubeless wheel, and you typically only pick up a sharp object in the rear anyway. Again for info. I rarely if ever run my front less than 25psi anyway - to help prevent pinch flats (since I have a tube) and rim damage from any square-edged hits.

As I say, over the years I've found 28psi the sweet spot for TKC80s in mixed terrain riding with a modest luggage load, only upping it to 30psi for a long highway section perhaps.

Have fun on your new bike!

Jenny x

ps. If you've not seen Juan's YouTube series from our trip together this past summer, it's all here on his YouTube channel: The Western TATn'back 2020

Ride Reports, Trips, and Touring / Re: Dirt road runnin
« on: November 20, 2020, 04:37:12 PM »
*Originally Posted by UnmzldOx [+]
I've wondered what the RR3 is like on sand and gravel. My unmodified 2014X with Pirelli Scorpion II tires is only ok on packed gravel. Loose, round, freshly graded gravel is really sketchy compared to my dirt bike memories on the same. I think front end weight and steep steering rake are the problem, and I don't know how much knobby tires can fix that. The front washes out easily if the surface is not packed.

The 19" front end (and corresponding more relaxed fork rake) is significantly more stable - that is the key difference really... but equally, as I'd suggest Drklynoon has found already - Shinko 705s are not 'off road' tyres... they are a deeper tread touring tyre at best (and a cheap one at that).

People often cheap-out with tyres - understandable perhaps since they are a consumable which wears out of course - but it's false economy, since they are ultimately the ONLY thing which makes your bike stop, go and steer!

Tyre pressures also play a significant part - I've lost count of the number of times I read people are running [the maximum] 42psi in the rear tyre, and wonder why their bike feels skittish - similarly at the front too, 36psi really is too high for a solo rider, particularly on dirt.

I would suggest you fit either a set of Continental TKC80s, or the Michelin Anakee Wilds* I've been using recently - and if you're of average weight (ie. under 200lbs), then 28psi front and rear works well both on and off-road.

Maybe increase that to 30psi if you have a lot of highway miles ahead (note that TKCs can start to feel skittish in the wet at much more than that on these bikes), and dropping to 25psi for softer more sandy conditions (and not below 20psi if you run tubeless).

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

*note. the TKC80 feels more sure footed on the road than the Anakee Wild, but the Wild is a very nice tyre on the dirt - a lot of grip.

Items Wanted / Re: Rally Raid Fork/shock/wheel kit
« on: November 17, 2020, 11:11:32 PM »
*Originally Posted by Guillaume [+]
Hi all, Iím interested about getting a rally raid level 1 or 2/3 kit for a 2018 CB500X.

Iím in north California.

Hi Guillaume - you're unlikely to find someone selling those parts secondhand (although that is not to say it's not possible of course), as most people sell/throw-away the OEM parts they've replaced when upgrading to the Rally-Raid wheels and suspension, and/or don't typically go to the bother of removing everything again so end up selling the bike complete with the new parts fitted...

If you've not looked in the Rally-Raid specific section already it's worth checking in there at the FAQs etc and considering purchasing a new kit directly from them (to the exact spec you want) if you can't find anything suitable on the secondhand market.

Jenny x

Ride Reports, Trips, and Touring / Re: Anyone do the COBDR?
« on: November 12, 2020, 11:33:54 PM »
*Originally Posted by ElectricalAttack [+]
Looking to join a few friends on the COBDR next summer. Most of the group going are riding CRF250s and comparable dirt bikes. I have a fairly stock 2013 CBX. Curious if anyone has ridden it, especially on the CBX. While I've been fooling around with the idea of getting a second bike, but I would love to attempt it on the CBX, knowing I may need to outfit a few things to get it across.

Anyone have any experience on this route?

Hi ElectricalAttack - yes, I've ridden pretty much all of the CO BDR over the years (other than one or two short sections which have not coincided with the way (I wanted to go at the time) - including all the sections consecutively north of Leadville, plus all the sections between Telluride and Tincup/Cottonwood (much of which is shared with the Trans-America Trail), and also south of Telluride to Delores.

As long as you have some decent tyres (TKC80s) and a strong engine guard and hand guards, the bike can make it - the question is how confident are you riding on rough and rocky terrain on a 400+lb bike?

If you have a reasonable amount of dirt riding experience, the BDR route through isn't going to phase you... if you're heading in their recommended direction from south to north, then going up Ophir Pass can be tricky as the tailing slopes on the west side can be loose in that uphill direction, and similarly there will be the odd spot going up Corkscrew Pass and Cinnamon Pass which will require some careful line choice. Otherwise the rest is pretty well maintained trail - and mega scenic!

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

ps. whatever you do, pack light - no point in adding a load more weight to an already comparatively heavy bike. Also, if you can afford to upgrade the stock suspension with something which offers better damping and ideally more travel too (ie the Rally-Raid LEVEL 2 set-up) you'll have a far easier and more comfortable time of it, and less likely to whack that bash-plate too.

photo. Don't worry, Cumberland and Cottonwood Pass (on the BDR route) are significantly more easy than Tincup Pass!

*Originally Posted by motorboy [+]
Been waiting for this -larger engine- larger fuel tank now if it had tubeless tires that would finish it-the  difference between the 250 engine and the 300 engine is night and day -I had both hard to believe that 3HP WHHP USA version would make that big of a difference but it does and they say 8.5 HP over the 250 but I' m sure that is crankshaft figures--and they both got the same MPG- Go Honda

If you feel tubeless tyres really are essential, there would be nothing to stop you either sealing the existing rims with the Outex tape system for example, or even getting the hubs re-laced with some more appropriate rims...

Personally for 'all-terrain' adventure riding, this bike with a set of 17/19" rims* sealed with the BARTubless polymer system would be the sweet spot I feel.

*note. There are comparatively few tubeless tyres available in 18/21 inch sizes, but virtually every manufacturer offers tubeless tyres in 17/19 size.


On Two Wheels / Re: Mash Motorcycles - New 650 Trail Bike
« on: November 12, 2020, 06:40:28 AM »
Ducati called... they want their initial sketches for their Scrambler back.


CB500X - General Chat / Re: I waxed my Mat Grey tank and...
« on: November 07, 2020, 02:59:33 PM »
Looks good to me... for info. Ducati used to paint their Monsters (and some other models) in a similar matt black finish, and a number of people in the UKMonster Owners club end up doing the same thing - itís very effective.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 157