Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - JMo

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 95
Tyres and Wheels / Re: 2013 wheel fitting
« on: Yesterday at 05:06:17 AM »
Hi WilberMaker - sorry to hear youíve damaged your stock wheels...

You may already be aware that the CBR500R, CB500F and CB500X all share the same wheels, so finding some secondhand replacements ought not to be too difficult on ebay/craigslist etc.

However, do be aware that the rear wheel for the ABS vs non ABS models are slightly different - goodness knows why they couldnít make both rear wheels the same and mount the ABS ring on the outside of the disc rotor like it is at the front, but youíll find that if you put a rear wheel from an ABS bike on without the ABS ring sandwiched between the disc and wheel, then the disc is too close to the inside of the caliper and rubs.

The solution is to either fit the ABS ring (that might well have come with a secondhand wheel anyway), or source 4 washers* 2mm thick, to space out the disc and do the same job as the ABS ring does.

*note the internal diamter of the washer needs to be the same as the ABS ring/shank on the disc bolt - 10mm as I recall.

With regard to the info about the Rally-Raid [front] wheel for the 2016-on ABS bikes, this is because Honda changed the shape of the front ABS ring in 2016, and it the OEM one no longer fits with the disc spider on the RR spoked wheels. Rally-Raid sell a replacement front ABS ring for those 2016-on ABS bikes. The OEM rear ABS ring is unchanged for all model years, and fits straight onto the RR wheels.

for info. The 2013-15 ABS models with Rally-Raid wheels utilise their original OEM front ABS ring.

Hope that clarifies things...

Jenny x

*Originally Posted by manray [+]
Today I checked my front suspension again and the "clicking" sound I was hearing when new is gone.  Instead, I hear a "swooshing" sound throughout the stroke; which is probably the oil moving through the valves as Oyabun suggests.  Anyway, 5wt oil and 4.5 turns of pre-load works well for me now. 

Minor issue but I have noticed in the last 500 miles my right fork preload screw turning a few degrees counterclockwise.  Don't know why this happens since my fork cap is on tight.

Hi Manyray - thanks for the update... as John says, itís often a case of simply letting new [suspension] components bed in for a few hundred miles or so.

With regard to your fork caps - I presume you have the 2016-on model OEM Honda caps, and these are just a simple threaded rod that supports the spring seat - so potentially could back out with repeated loading and unloading of the spring. This is why the Rally-Raid preload caps were designed with a lock nut to prevent that happening.


*Originally Posted by ArchieAdv [+]
Todays update - Well as expected it was the gap on the rear pulse ring sitting at ~5mm which is about 3.5mm to wide.  Bull and Brain on the money, and as I had suspected but it's always good to get the fresh eyes overview from others...

...I have one gripe and it's not down to RR but Honda.  The rear axle adjustment is diabolical and anything any does to stop those fecking stupid adjusters from falling out would be very welcome.  I'm at the point where I'm likely to fabricate a little keeper plate for the right side as it is just a complete PITA.  God help anyone that has to fix a puncture on the rear with a tubed tyre.

Hi Archie - Iím currenty on the road so will be brief...

Sorry to hear youíre having trouble, if you can actaully see the ABS ring is bent then that is almost certainly the issue. You can take it off and try and flatten it if the gap seems inconsistent, the other thing to consider is that many Honda OEM parts are much cheaper in the USA - take a look at Babbitts Parts House for example, and also check different model years (both on the UK and US fiches) as prices can vary considerably.

As for your chain adjusters - itís quite simple: just put a short strip of duct tape over the top and bottom to hold them into the end of the swing-arm whenever you need to remove and repace the wheel. You can even leave the tape in place all the time if youíre particularly ghetto ;o)

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

Maintenance and Servicing / Re: washable air filters
« on: June 22, 2018, 07:08:19 PM »
Hi David' - regular dirt-bike style foam filter oil tends to be a bit thick for K&N type cloth filters... As Irish Rover suggests, if your filter is basically a clone of a K&N/DNA style mesh over cloth membrane, just get the K&N filter oil and cleaner combo.

Good stuff.


Rally Raid / Re: Maintenance Schedule for Rally Raid Components
« on: June 20, 2018, 11:08:50 PM »
*Originally Posted by zshadow [+]
Hi JMo,

I'm sorry if my post implied any slight on the quality of RR kit parts. That was certainly not the intention. Quite the opposite actually. I have more faith in the RR kit parts than the original Honda components they replace.

My suggestion was aimed at riders new to world of motorcycling. I have known a lot of riders over my 45+ years of riding, the number that would not give a thought to basic maintenance of suspension components, changing fork oil etc continues to surprise me.

Only a few days ago while fuelling up my bike I heard a Ducati 700 enter the fuel station at speed only to lockup the rear and come to abrupt stop. 2 up, with his best mate on the back, no tools, no clutch and an empty clutch master cylinder. The lack of basic maintenance was obvious due the rusted screws on the master cylinder that were seized and ready to snap off at any moment. My point being, new inexperienced riders sometimes need the to have the bleeding obvious spelt out to them, and yes they rode off into peak hour traffic, still with no clutch.

It concerns me that a subset of inexperienced riders do not understand their lack of maintenance of "out of sight" components can lead to dire consequences.

I have no problem with recommending RR kits, as my level 2 bike here in Oz, regularly attracts attention from other bike enthusiasts and motorcycle dealers who hit me with a barrage of questions about it. Hell, I've even considered printing information sheets   :008:

P.S. just noticed that my first post should have stated;
"For example we are seeing a number of "my rear suspension is squeaking" questions, while owners do have access to manuals for stock bikes, maintenance guides for RR kit parts do NOT exist."

Hi zshadow - don't worry, I didn't take your comments as any sort of criticism - my point was simply that you don't have to do anything [extra] with the Rally-Raid parts fitted that you don't have to do with a stock bike...

If people are new and/or unfamiliar with motorcycle maintenance in general, and especially the additional checks and maintenance required once you start using a machine off-road more regularly, then I'd always suggest they consider familiarising themselves with the workshop/service manual for their bike, if not taking steps to learn the basic checks and maintenance procedures themselves...

Fortunately YouTube and other internet resources are full of 'how-to' style videos and descriptions for general motorcycle maintenance.

Where anything might be specific to the Rally-Raid components (such as suspension set-up and adjustment for example), then that information is already included in their respective product description and fitting instructions.


Rally Raid / Re: Maintenance Schedule for Rally Raid Components
« on: June 20, 2018, 05:55:20 PM »
SnowOwl makes a very good point - it is far simpler logistically to host all relevant (and any updated) information in one place - ie. Rally-Raid's own site, and let the google machine do it's thing...

For info. The current website is in the process of being updated (I saw it on the desktop yesterday and it looks very slick!) and will be live soon.

That kind of information, together with more general FAQs will all be available there.

With regard to 'servicing' Rally-Raid components, they really need nothing more than the regular service schedule in your handbook/workshop manual - as they are effectively like-for-like components, that typically all use the same bearings and seals as the OEM parts you've replaced.

note. The squeaky linkage that Dukie refers to was indeed a well used part that had not been lubed/greased initially nor maintained at all during an extended trip from the UK to India. Any suspension components are going to start to wear after something like that!

Rest assured there are plenty of Rally-Raid bikes out there with 30,000 or even 40,000 miles or more on them now, and there is no more maintenance required than with any other [standard] bike of similar mileage.


As EscCtrl suggests, look for lamps that have a removable 'fog' lens cover, although in my experience these tend to be a little larger - typically designed for four-wheeled vehicles rather than bikes.

for info. You can get Baja Designs Squadron lamps with both clear and yellow lenses, although they are not clip-on/off - you'd need to swap them with a small allen key each time.


*Originally Posted by Oldhorse [+]
Hi JMo,
You previously mentioned carrying a single 18" tube to handle both front and rear tire flats for the RR 17/19 wheel combo.
Has that worked well or did it prove to be " a great idea that wasn't worth a darn"?
Some riders have reported the wrong size tubes blow out way too easy.

Hi Oldhorse - don't worry, I never have ideas that aren't worth a darn ;o)

To recap - I elected/continue to carry an 18" x 120-ish size rear tube as a spare on my CB, as it will fit inside the front 110/80x19 front tyre, plus is just large enough to fill the [much larger] volume of a 150/70x17 rear.

both times I've had to use it, it's been in the rear tyre, and I would say that size tube should only be used as a temporary measure (although in one instance I did continue for another 1500 miles on it before swapping to a new tyre and correct size rear tube), so yes - it works as a spare to keep you going, but ideally you'd fit the correct size replacement tube once you get to a tyre shop.

For info. based on my ongoing feedback with both the CB500X and now the G310GS with the Rally-Raid spoked wheels fitted, John [at Rally-Raid] has now decided to specify/sell the slightly narrower 140/80x17 rear TKC80 for both bikes as their recommended tyre of choice.

You can still fit a 150/70x17 if you wish of course (other brands don't necessarily have a 140 width 17" rear tyre), but we feel this is the best size rear tyre for either bike if you want a high-quality 50/50 tyre.

note. In relation to carrying a single spare tube, this also means that an 18"x120 tube doesn't have to stretch quite so much either.

Hope that helps!

Jenny x

*Originally Posted by bullroarer [+]
Co2 cannisters for inflating tyres.
Also the puncture repair kit that you can use if say a nail or screw enters the tyre.   You take out item from tyre, use a rasp type thing to slide in and out of hole of tyre, then put tyre glue oo and in hole with rasp. Then put this sticky cord type thing with a bit of glue on the pronged inserting tool, push 1/2 way into hole. Wait 5 mins, cut off excess...inflate.

These only work for tubeless tyres of course - but yes, a plug kit is a great idea if you're running  the stock wheels, or the tubeless version of the Rally-Raid spoked wheels. Dynaplug is another compact tool which is very easy to plug small nail-sized holes with.

As for CO2 cartridges, in my experience they work ok on a front dirt-bike tyre (21"), but trying to fill a 150/70x17 dual-sport tyre will take a handful. They are very small though, so might be an idea to keep a couple to help re-seat a tyre initially - but I would always use a 12v compressor (as per the one in my video) for actual full inflation.


*Originally Posted by Wilde [+]
Hey Jenny, I did see it last night. I was looking at what you had that I didn't and vice versa.

A couple questions: I definitely need to add a spoke wrench. Why do you have multiple sized bits for that? Also, I just watched your tire change video and I think I want a bead buddy as well. Breaking the bead seemed like the hardest part, so do you think the bead breaking tire irons I linked would be a good idea?

The DRC spoke wrench comes with multiple bits, so you just choose the one you need for the Rally-Raid spokes (6.4 as I recall), but I also like to carry the 6.0 and 7.0mm size, as they double up as small open ended wrenches of course.

I've not used the black Bead-breaker style MotionPro tyre levers myself, but have friends who say they work well - so I'd say give them a go... However, be aware than braking a bead on a tubeless tyre (like a TKC80), even if you're running tubes inside them can be a bitch with whatever trail-side tools you have...

Personally I try to ride on a flat tyre until one of the beads unseats, then change the tube from there.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 95