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Messages - billyedtimmy

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Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: Killing the Cat
« on: September 26, 2017, 07:04:13 PM »
Awesome, look forward to your race results!

Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Not starting!!
« on: August 05, 2017, 09:31:08 PM »
From the sound of things, I'm going with battery or terminal connections. Are the terminal connections corroded or loose?

That 17V reading doesn't sound right, it should be around 12V if you've got the multimeter on 20 for DC. I'd disconnect that battery and try another (e.g., car battery via jumpers) to see what you get (again, should be 12V).

On Two Wheels / Re: My new Cb500X looks a little different..
« on: August 03, 2017, 05:07:33 AM »
Definitely not a grave mistake! My wife rides one (700GS - same beast), and loves it. It's a great bike. Lots of quality components that make the cheapness of the X more apparent. It's an easy bike to work on, and very mild mannered.  The GS engine feels like a very tight sewing machine (ultra-smooth, almost irritatingly so). Absolute perfection for churning out endless highway miles.

For myself, I still prefer the X. There's more excitement in revving it up. It feels a bit more eager and engaging, and it absolutely flicks around in the corners better than the B-mer (wheelbase).

But, you can't go wrong with either, really.  :001:  Congrats on a<nother> great bike.

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Switchable ABS cheap/easy install
« on: August 02, 2017, 08:01:37 PM »
*Originally Posted by hilldweller [+]
I'm afraid my negative comment is what about insurance. If you have an off are you giving them room to wriggle out of a claim ? They could argue "we charged for a risk based on full time ABS".

Yes you are only using it a bit for off road but you can't prove it's switched on if you have an off on tarmac.

Hmm.... could be a consideration. My particular policy/agency doesn't take ABS into consideration, so I recon I'm clear personally, but maybe other agencies treat this kind of thing differently.

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Switchable ABS cheap/easy install
« on: August 01, 2017, 08:38:55 PM »
*Originally Posted by Sargent_Horse [+]
Sounds like it works good! Make sure that everything is water proof though, don't want ABS to act up in the rain. This is Rally Raids offering on the matter:
+80 ABS switch (RR)
Your option would certainly be more affordable however.

Yeah, my complaint with RR's offering is they appear to want you to intercept the fuse via the wiring underneath the fuse box, and I didn't want to touch that spaghetti factory.  :008:

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Switchable ABS cheap/easy install
« on: August 01, 2017, 07:02:12 PM »
So, one of the few complaints regarding the X that I had was not being able to turn off the ABS when off-road (well, short of popping open the seat and pulling the main ABS fuse). I wanted to share a work-around (and am preparing a video...eventually) for an easy mod I did to make the ABS 'switchable'.

You need the following items:
(1) A fuse socket connector for patching in a wire to the ABS main fuse. I used this...

(2) A FUSED wire (with the fuse being at the same amperage as the ABS main fuse, for obvious reasons). I used this:

(3) And finally, a simple 2-pin toggle switch:

Basically, I pulled the ABS main fuse and replaced it with the fuse socket connector. You have to bend it a bit to fit comfortably given the seat clearance. Then I wired in the switch using the fused wire (chopping off the connections at both ends and soldering). I mounted the switch to the small, black plastic inside portion of the fairing (under the left handlbar) so that it's out of the way and relatively protected from the weather.

Results: Works like a hot-damn, and better than expected. I can switch off the ABS on the fly, and the ABS light on the dash comes on to let you know your ABS is off. Then, when you get back on pavement, switch it back on and within a few seconds of riding (as with startup) the ABS re-initializes and you're good to go. I was actually surprised that it reinitialized itself without needing to turn the bike off/on.

Anyway, total cost of the mod was around $50 and an hour and half of time. Definitely well-worth it if you go offroad regularly (i.e., fumbling around trying to remove a little 7.5 amp fuse on the side of a dirt road isn't so enjoyable).  :001:

I can post some pics or answer any questions if anyone has any. Like I said, I'm trying to get together a youtube video of the process, but my audio turned out poorly, so having to re-record. I'll have it up ... sometime.

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: Killing the Cat
« on: August 01, 2017, 06:49:29 PM »
I'm curious if you have any thoughts on an easier way to do this than cutting open the side. Like perhaps ream out the interior of the cat by inserting a blunt object with force? I'm not sure I have the tools/skill to cut open the side like that, but I like the sound of the results you've achieved (a little more power on this bike would be nice).

Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Fuel gauge failure indication
« on: March 21, 2017, 02:09:40 AM »
Thank you for this post, I had the exact same issue and when I opened her up.... same exact wire! Weird failure.

I used my soldering gun to melt off the end of the exposed wire and then soldered it back onto the unit. Works fine now. Guess it's only a matter of time until the red one goes too though, eh?  :001:

Maintenance and Servicing / Re: DIY spark plug replacement
« on: October 05, 2016, 12:32:55 AM »
*Originally Posted by stew.pan [+]
Yes Grim Reaper, you are right, the tank can be removed as you described. I know this as i have done it. Re earlier post, i had to remove the (o/s) top panel to do the task i wanted so the crash bars had to come off but when everything was put back, the engine would'nt start up!
With what i had done i realised this must be fuel related, ie squashed rubber pipe .
It was then, when i thought about stripping everything off again that i realised i could prise the panels apart and thus raise or remove the tank. I checked it out but found nothing out of place. With the tank some 3 or 4 inches towards the rear of the bike i pressed the starter button and it fire up. Slipped the tank back into position and it failed to start! Moved it back down and it fired up!!!! Re-checked the pipes etc and found nothing awry so put it back in position and it fired up and has been fine since.  I have no idea what caused this and still do'nt. Perhaps air in the system or a vacume somewhere (or are they the same?) No doubt someone who knows what they are talking about can enlighten me.

There's a little round cut-out under the tank that appears to be for coiling the fuel line into (to protect it from being compressed by the weight of the tank). If you didn't set the tube back within that cut-out, I can imagine a bit of a pinch causing the engine to starve for fuel.

Maintenance and Servicing / Re: DIY spark plug replacement
« on: October 05, 2016, 12:29:53 AM »
Just changed my plugs today (25,000km on the ODO). The toughest part of the job was fooling with the plastics (especially the  side ones around my SW Motech bars - it can be done, but it's painful).

Once the tank is up and out, there's just that one plug/relay thingy on the top/right of the undertank tray that you can disconnect and feed the wire back through the bottom to lift the tray up and to the left enough to get at both plugs (takes a seriously long socket extender - they're waaay down in there!).

The plugs were a little grey-ish on the terminals, probably had some life left, but looks to have been a pretty perfect time to change. I put the 'high-performance' NGK ones in, we'll see if I smoke any Ferraris now.  :007:

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