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Messages - Superplasma

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Tyres and Wheels / Re: Why do motorcycle tyres lose pressure?
« on: January 13, 2019, 10:09:54 AM »
That is not a problem,I have allways  found this on all the bikes (45) I have had.


On Two Wheels / Re: Novel Birthday Present
« on: January 13, 2019, 10:03:48 AM »
What a super present.


Maintenance and Servicing / Re: reducing jerkiness
« on: January 11, 2019, 10:04:13 AM »
*Originally Posted by Freeflow [+]
It's better to remove the jerk behaviour from the rider.  A big stick may help.

I've not noticed much in the way of jerking from mine, my 900 Hornet was apalling when I first got it and I had a Power Commander fitted [BSD near Peterborough] which smoothed things out, gave 4 bhp [4% more power over standard] and better fuel economy as well.  No exhaust or airbox mods were carried out.

The jerkiness can be sorted by technique on a bike with fuel injection from standard.  The 900 Hornet is a 919 'blade engine that was designed for carbs but running under fuel injection, most bikes like this suffer from 'on-off' throttles, although my XJR1300 didn't.

Rather than adjusting the throttle to remove the free play, or indeed to give you more 'slack' try to feel where the throttle starts to pick up, with the engine off you can find this by opening the throttle to the point where the slack vanishes and it feels like you are opening the slides.  With the engine on it's when the revs pick up.  You can adjust your hand position so that you let the throttle go onto the tickover position without getting lots of slack into the cable that you then need to remove by opening the throttle.  This will also position your hand better for control over the throttle position for most speeds you will be at.

The other thing to look at is the clutch.  The Japaneese, not the people with the biggest hands in the world, set the clutch bite point a lot further out than I like-perhaps they think Chewbacca rides their bikes?  If you have small hands you will probably need to adjust the position, mine are 'rubber glove size' 8 1/2 and I need my lever bringing in about 5mm on every bike I've owned.  Being able to feather the clutch also makes slow riding a lot easier.  If you put the bars into a right hand turn to the stop and your hand can't hold the clutch at the bite point try adjusting it.  If you aren't confident riding with the bars against the stop then do it while stationary.

Think about when you feel the jerkiness-pulling off from a stop [hand postion may help], slow riding in traffic [clutch may help], changing gear [being smoother, and picking a different engine speed may help]?

Also, think about planning ahead.  If you need to constantly react to traffic slowing by closing your throttle try leaving a bit more of a gap for you to "ride into" while slowing, that way you may reduce your need to close the throttle fully or brake and be smoother.

Top post, 10/10.


New Member Introductions / Re: Hello from UK
« on: January 11, 2019, 09:46:28 AM »
Very big welcome from the Wirral.


Tyres and Wheels / Re: Valve Stems
« on: January 03, 2019, 10:58:19 PM »
*Originally Posted by bullroarer [+]
The metal valve stems corrode between where the stem washer is in contact with the inner rim as moisture gets trapped there. Accentuated in saltier climates.Ok , itíll take a few months to start corroding, but it happens, then the inside of the rim oxidises. Stick to the rubber type, of which are replaced every time the tyre is replaced

+1 good post,I have seen the same thing ,rubber type all ways for me,


Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Removing throttle housing
« on: January 02, 2019, 01:54:40 PM »
*Originally Posted by catstevecam [+]
Very helpful having such clear images of the 'mating' surfaces - thank you for sharing.

+1,  top post,thank you


Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Removing throttle housing
« on: December 27, 2018, 04:23:18 PM »
I have been following this topic with interest as we have two CB500 and both have the play in the throttle housing where it connects to the bars, as already been said this is mainly caused by Honda using a very cheap and poor throttle, so I was wondering if itís possible to use a steel throttle set as used on most of the bikes, for example the one on my last bike, a Triumph Bonneville had a steel throttle, and clamped to the bars with no problem, so has anyone tried to use a throttle from another bike and would it work, I canít really see a reason why it wouldnít and possible we could buy one from a breakers yard cheap, or someone like Rally Raid my sell such a thing.


Random Banter / Xmas
« on: December 20, 2018, 09:48:29 AM »
A very happy xmas ,from Wirral in the UK.

Superplasma. :047:

Tyres and Wheels / Re: Dunlop Trailmax d609
« on: December 10, 2018, 09:47:15 AM »
*Originally Posted by quill4 [+]
Chesh':  RP4's were a no brainer, until I watched this:

Because the RP4's were so good it was difficult to believe that anything could be better, so it was a difficult decision to make.  However, the performance of the Metzelers was so confidence inspiring, in the wet, on mountain hairpin roads, at lean angles way above my normal riding conditions, that I doubt whether I will go back to RP4's.  No criticism of the Michelins intended, they are heaps better than the awful Dunlops that came with the bike, I just like the Metzelers a smidgeon more.

I have the Metzeler Road tec 01s , find them great.


Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Help! DID X-ring chain (Is this normal?)
« on: December 09, 2018, 05:00:45 PM »
  20 years off road using spring clips, never had one come off.


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