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Suspension / DIY 1 inch lowering and it's free for everyone.
« on: September 16, 2015, 05:21:42 AM »
I didn't lower the front of my bike.There are videos around the internet that show how to slide the forks up in the triple clamps, for free one inch lower in the front.Make sure the bike is supported before loosening any bolts or screws.

I lowered the rear of my bike 1 inch by doing the triangle flip and switch.I hung my bike up,literally,to do this.All you do is remove the three bolts,nuts,and triangles.Then switch sides with the triangles,flip them so the arrows face back and up,then torque the bolts/nuts back down.

I did this before changing tires,so I could get an accurate measurement on the lowering.

Before 22 3/4 inches

Flipped and switched.This is how they are supposed to look afterwards.Note the arrows point to the rear tire.

The end results.21 3/4 inches,maybe a little lower.

Oh and my bike literally strung up.

Tyres and Wheels / New rubber arrived,Shinko 705.
« on: September 08, 2015, 05:32:22 PM »
I was hoping these would be here for the weekend,but no dice.I recieved one last Wednesday, and I got the other one this morning.I got them from 158.76 delivered.The weather is supposed to turn to crap this afternoon,from my understanding, so I don't know when I'll get a chance to install them.Will update when I get them on.

Sizes 150/70 and 120/70.

Tire changer is ready and waiting.I also picked up a fresh jug of Ruglyde for the install.

Maintenance and Servicing / Low oil and blown wheel bearing!
« on: September 02, 2015, 12:55:56 PM »

The past two days,I have been riding mountain gravel roads,about 200miles.Yesterday morning,I checked my bike over really well.Went through the process of warming the bike.I shut it down,and added a couple pounds of air to each tire,and checked the oil level.It was just below the full mark.Yesterday,when I returned home,I noticed a faint metallic grinding squealing sound coming from the front end.It varied with speed.So I checked it out.Front wheel bearing sounds like it is rolling through sand.It's all crunchy and rough.I did a complete check of my bike.Damn oil level couldn't even be seen in the sight glass.It took a half quart of oil to put it back just under the full mark.It's been 5300 miles since my 600 mile service.I used full synthetic Valvoline 10w/40 oil.I never had my bike use oil.I found no leaks.A lot of people report low oil levels when running synthetic,so I will be doing an oil change.I'll go back to using 15w/40 Rotella T diesel oil,the same stuff I have run in all my other bikes for the past 10 years.

Oh,I called my dealer yesterday evening.They tell me that wheel bearings aren't covered under warranty.  :232:

CB500X - General Chat / JC Whitney large size trunk,no longer available.
« on: September 01, 2015, 01:08:03 AM »
I tried to buy the large size JCW trunk,item number CSMRJT928,and was informed that the manufacture is no longer making them.These trunks can be used on Givi/Kappa Monokey racks.The medium CSMRJT929,does not fit.The mounting slots are more narrower than the Givi/Kappa racks.

Tyres and Wheels / Cheap solid DIY front 17mm axle hex tool.
« on: September 01, 2015, 01:00:48 AM »
I am waiting for Chaparral Racing to ship my Shinko 705 in sizes 150/70-17 and 120/70-17.In the mean time,I need to find a axle hex tool.I can not take credit for this.I found it while looking for a 17mm axle hex tool online.I thought I would share my pics with supplies list.This tool cost me $2.09 at Lowe's.Any places that sells nuts and bolts should have these.

1=M10-1.50 x 30mm bolt
4=M10-1.50 nuts
Any good hardware store or home improvement store will have these for around $2-$3.I bought grade 8 hardware.The cheapest axle hex tool I could find was $18.DIY sure wins in this case,for me,and I can stow it in my tool roll pretty easily.I plan to take mine apart and use red locktite on it to keep it from vibrating apart in my tool roll.


I was hoping to bring you all a wonderfully long winded write up about installing my fuse block and electric gadgets.Unfortunately,I am here to give a warning.If you have purchased a fuse block like the one below,it needs to be tested.Mine had the diodes for the LED lights installed wrong,and it was powering both sides of the fuse.Unfortunately,I had to break the case to test the circuit board.With power on the main stud,it was back feeding the male spade terminals on the sides.All that needs to be done,is power the main stud from the battery,and check the exposed spade terminals for power.If there is power with no fuse,it is good.If there is power WITHOUT a fuse,the diodes are in backwards.


Friday,I am hoping to pick up one of those expensive bulky auto fuse blocks.


It comes standard with Kappa KL1121 side carrier kit.


Anyone do this?I have in the shops i have worked in.I have never done this as a way to get out of pushing the bike backwards.

This CRF250L is running a CBR500R engine and long travel suspension.

CB500X - General Chat / My bungee technique for backpack back rest.
« on: July 05, 2015, 05:06:06 PM »
I was asked about my bungee rigging on another forum, so I thought I'd share here.

I can not stand wearing a back pack when I ride.So I bungee my back pack in a way that allows me to use the bottom as a back rest.Here is how I do it.This method should prevent scratching the bike,if you're concerned about that.I didn't intend for it to be this, way but I am happy that my bike doesn't get scratched up.

In my pack,rain gear,warm base layer,thermal liners for my gear,and my water proof gloves.I have since switched to a dry bag from mil spec.I rig it the same way to give me a back rest.Dry bag works best for a back rest,but sweaty due to lack of air circulation.

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