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Offline grewen

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #10 on: July 24, 2019, 09:07:10 PM »
Hilldweller...he's on the wrong forum, it's not a cb500 he's talking about
Greg
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Offline scharfg

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2019, 07:02:01 AM »
Update:

Thank you for you help.

I had an older lithium on the shelf that is holding a charge well, so I installed it.

I charged both batteries and am monitoring the voltages.

Lead acid at 8am is 12.8v, at 10pm its 12.5v

Lithiu at 8am is 13.2v, at 10pm its 13.1v.

I also checked out the alternator by checking for amperage draw using a meter and disconnecting the positive battery cable but I could not find any.

I'll take it for another test ride with the lithium battery.

I also thought that air may be getting pulled in under the fuel pump gasket when the pump is under load (ie: the bubbles).  I also thought of putting the stock tank back on to see if there are any bubbles.

Take care.

Guy.
From Icky Prince George BC

Offline Jonathan

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2019, 02:37:16 PM »
if you've started the engine and you observe a steady 14.3+ Volts it suggests there's nothing wrong with the starter or charging circuit. The battery is toast if it's only reading 12.2V after charging.

As for the stalling, it's highly likely it was fuel starvation. You will see bubbles initially on start up, but these should stop once the fuel pump is fully pressurized.

Fuel pumps can run quite hot, which means they expand somewhat...if the diaphragm is leaking it will be most noticeable at full temperature I've had a similar problem with a Facet pump on my camper van....it would work fine when cold, but start to fail when it heated up.

I fitted an acerbis oversized tank on my CRF and it was trouble free. I'd suggest you buy a new pump and gasket and make sure you torque the nuts down in opposing sequence. If the problem continues, check the lines. Old fuel won't help matters....CRF motors are pretty bulletproof  but the fuel pumps are a known issue (see Thumper Talk forum)
« Last Edit: August 02, 2019, 02:38:51 PM by Jonathan »

Offline scharfg

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #13 on: August 02, 2019, 05:02:48 PM »
 Thanks so much for the advice!

Im still trying to figure out why the rear wheel would lock up though...?
« Last Edit: August 02, 2019, 05:05:14 PM by scharfg »
From Icky Prince George BC

Online hilldweller

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #14 on: August 02, 2019, 08:03:18 PM »
*Originally Posted by grewen [+]
Hilldweller...he's on the wrong forum, it's not a cb500 he's talking about

Even so I still can't get my head round the idea of a clear fuel tank.
Brian.

Offline scharfg

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2019, 08:56:26 PM »
Opaque fuel tank.....
From Icky Prince George BC

Offline scharfg

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #16 on: August 08, 2019, 07:23:29 AM »
I put the bike in 6th gear and I was able to roll it backwards and forwards (with some effort, I could hear the motor turning over).

I then checked the side stand switch and on off switch wires and they seemed fine.

I then warmed up the bike and dropped the oil.
I felt the starter and it did not feel any hotter than the engine block.

I have only run the bike 13km since the oil change when we did the clutch.

The oil was a dark grey molly colour and when I shone my light into it I could see metallic sparkles like a metallic paint.

The magnetic oil plug had fine black residue on the magnet part and a couple of very small pieces of metal on the tip.

I then pulled the filter and I could not find any debris/particles.

In my newby opinion something is definitely wrong inside the motor based on the colour and small metal particles in the oil 😡

Whats my next step..?

I tried posting photos but each one came up with a red triangle with an exclamation mark over it after it tried uploading it to the gallery.








From Icky Prince George BC

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #17 on: August 08, 2019, 12:58:27 PM »
Just to clarify. That clear container has your engine oil in it?
If so that is not a good colour.
Check your coolant level and colour.
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Offline harryhendo

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #18 on: August 08, 2019, 02:35:50 PM »
Looks like you have a coolant leak into the engine's oil sump. The milky color of the motor oil shows that clearly. The typical cause is a leaking (blown) head gasket.
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Offline Jonathan

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Re: Why did my motor shut off at 50 miles/hr..?
« Reply #19 on: August 14, 2019, 10:34:15 AM »
*Originally Posted by scharfg [+]
I put the bike in 6th gear and I was able to roll it backwards and forwards (with some effort, I could hear the motor turning over).

I then checked the side stand switch and on off switch wires and they seemed fine.

I then warmed up the bike and dropped the oil.
I felt the starter and it did not feel any hotter than the engine block.

I have only run the bike 13km since the oil change when we did the clutch.

The oil was a dark grey molly colour and when I shone my light into it I could see metallic sparkles like a metallic paint.

The magnetic oil plug had fine black residue on the magnet part and a couple of very small pieces of metal on the tip.

I then pulled the filter and I could not find any debris/particles.

In my newby opinion something is definitely wrong inside the motor based on the colour and small metal particles in the oil

What’s my next step..?

I tried posting photos but each one came up with a red triangle with an exclamation mark over it after it tried uploading it to the gallery.










the next step is to replace the oil and filter and see if the problem has been rectified.

going through each in turn:
it seems like the starting/charging circuit and associated items (switches etc.) are working as normal
A faulty fuel pump could cause starvation which would stop the bike from running.
If the fuel was cut as you're riding it could lock the rear wheel under certain circumstances.
If you pulled the clutch in as a counter measure, the bike would simply roll to a stop. This may be a red herring though...

You say that the clutch has been replaced recently- so I'm assuming the clutch was slipping and it wasn't cable-related. Were you having any issues with gear changes? A common problem with the CRFs was the judder plate which people tended to replace when they renewed the clutch (using stronger springs). The clutch basket and pressure plate are made of relatively soft allloy (IIRC) and these were often cited as the source of the metallic swarf found in the oil.

Were you having any issues with gear changes before the clutch was replaced? It's common to assume that the problem lies with the clutch but some owners report shifting problems after replacement, which suggests gear shift shaft or pawls...this can happen if the bike has been dropped hard on the gear lever side...only way to determine this is with a strip down, unfortunately.

water in the oil is often down to cylinder head gasket leaks but on the CRF the coolant pump is located on the clutch side and the seal may leak. There's also a small oil seal behind this, so the question is, is it oil the coolant, or coolant in the oil?

Sorry I can't be more specific, but it sounds like you will have to look at each aspect of the system, identify which components can be ruled out (tested/known good) and progress from there. Labour time to isolate/diagnose/repair can soon add up, although the parts themselves are very cheap. If the rest of the bike is in overall good condition one option (albeit drastic) is to fit a known good secondhand engine/gearbox (with a warranty!)...it may seem expensive at first glance, but by the time a mechanic has stripped, inspected, tested and replaced the parts that may be necessary, it can work out around the same...a lot depends on how much you value the bike and how long you can do without it.

bear in mind this is the worst case scenario. With the new clutch, fresh oil and a few test runs, you may find that you have rectified the underlying problem and what you are seeing is the remnants of what went wrong. Inspect the coolant to see if there's any evidence of oil in there (it will look 'filmy' on top if the bike's been stood for a day or two...think oil in a puddle)...if so, consider pulling the clutch side crankcase cover and renewing the oil seal, and throw a new gasket in there while you're at it
« Last Edit: August 14, 2019, 10:44:22 AM by Jonathan »

 


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